Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Downtown, Penn Quarter
The SetupA brand new restaurant with modernist cuisine? One that is a sidekick to an exhibit at the place I used to work? And brought to you all by the creative author of some of my happiest meals, Jose Andres? You don't need to say anymore. For this date, I dragged along Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas to both the exhibit, and of course, the meal.
The Vibe
As alluded to above, America Eats Tavern is the sister restaurant to the What's Cooking, Uncle Sam? exhibit across the street. In partnership with the National Archives, Jose Andres shut down Cafe Atlantico and by extension minibar (probably the forgotten stepsister and crown jewel of the Andres DC empire, respectively), and replaced them temporarily with the new venture. It's also worth noting that America Eats Tavern represents Andres's first DC foray into non-small plates.
The architecture of America Eats therefore is built on the old skeleton of Atlantico. The bottom is a more casual space, with half-booth seating to one side, a small raw bar stand near the windows, and high table seating for fours by the bar area, where plenty of people were waiting even with our late reservation time. The upstairs, connected by a doubled flight of stairs, is a tad more formal, with four-tops squeezed into a space bordered by two-tops. A set of larger tables is on a raised level to one side, and on the other stands the now vacant minibar space (which according to our waitress, has had its reopening date already pushed back a few times).The decor mirrors the exhibit, and is like some mashup of Pottery Barn and Old Navy. White paint dominates, from the exposed vents to the walls, which showcase plenty of pictures from the exhibit, from wartime posters to a photo of a bibbed pig. The chalkboard menu above the bar now reads "People of America," metal stars hang on the walls, flanking a particularly large mural of an American flag. The furniture is austere, silver brushed-metal chairs standing in stark contrast to the wood floors. In the center of the restaurant, intersecting all levels, hangs a mobile of windows and more pictures from the exhibit.
The Food
America Eats Tavern draws its menu from a number of regional specialties and all-American classics, all with the signature Jose Andres touch. Example: a housemade peanut butter and jelly sandwich... with foie gras. Sadly, our waitress had to inform us that this dish, while well-publicized, was not yet on the menu. Sad city.The Americanism didn't just stop at food, but rather extended out to the all-American list of beer, wine, cocktail classics. Texas had the Jack Rose (Applejack, lemon, and house grenadine), and I had the Clover Club (gin, raspberry, lime, and egg white). Despite the ingredients of the two, it was the Jack Rose that was surprisingly strong and whiskey-like in taste, whereas the Clover Club was like a frothy fruit punch. Both were nice aperitifis.
As our first course, Texas and I split the grilled butter oysters, which came on a bed of charred seaweed. They were juicy and smooth, with a nice smoky taste to each, provided by the oak charcoal they had been grilled on. Definitely top notch, and recommended.
Texas had the New England clam chowder with poached cod, a dish familiar to me as it was taken right off the minibar menu. A potato chowder with green streaks of cilantro oil, dots of bacon, and chunks of beautiful poached fish alongside briny clams. And that's the thing, the complaint that Official Co-Writer of DCWD CC registered when we had the dish the first time, and again from Texas during this meal: if you're not into briny, tastes like the ocean clams, be prepared to be shocked by this dish. I think it's a nice punch in the face, but I could see how one could be overwhelmed by it. Be warned.
For me, I ordered the Wednesday-only Kentucky burgoo, a meat stew made with rabbit, squab, lamb, and baby root vegetables. Luckily for me, the menu replaced burgoo's old combination of blackbirds and squirrels with more edible meats. Unluckily for me, this dish seemed to suffer from head chef Richard Brandenburg's recent departure; the broth, and by extension the meats, all came a tad bit oversalted. If you could get past that touch of saltiness, then the gaminess of the rabbit and squab was rather pleasant, cooked pretty well with crispy outside and perfect inside. Still, salt.
For dessert, we went with the New York cheesecake, which luckily for us, was the last one the kitchen pumped out that night due to the heat. Instead of a typical New York-style cheesecake, the cheese came in whipped cream form on a graham cracker crust with slices of strawberries alongside it. Oh man, what an amazing taste, delightfully creamy but without the traditional heaviness of a NY-style. We could eat that every day.The Verdict
A perfect example of a Jose Andres restaurant: wonderfully creative interpretations of simple dishes, with bold flavors. Also, a perfect example of a new restaurant, and one that knows it has an expiration date: unsure, unsteady, with great highs, but also missing on simple things like salt. Still, an overwhemingly fun experience.
Food Rating: *** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 3 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Classy Crowd to Suits Scene
Vibe: Energetic to Noisy
Cost: $$$$ (out of 5) ($75-$100 for two)














































