DC-Wrapped Dates

Belga Cafe

2012-01-26T10:00:00.000-05:00

Plaudits: RAMMY 2010 - Nominated Neighborhood Gathering Place
Neighborhood: Eastern Market

The Setup

For our twice annual Restaurant Week date, Official Friends of DCWD G, Baboon, and HR Intern joined me and Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas at Belga Cafe.

The Vibe

The space is a modern take on a brasserie set in a fairly thin dining room; despite the size of the space, the tables are very close to one another and to the walls. A long bar runs alongside the right side of the restaurant until the open kitchen. The space is defined by chocolate brown furniture and ecru paint with exposed brick, with small pieces of kitsch to decorate, like a saxophone over the bar. The whole space is slightly tinged red from small lamps, and the overhead ceiling traps a lot of the noise, creating a fairly loud space.

The Food

I'm probably one of the biggest fans of Restaurant Week, for reasons I've touched upon many times on this blog. It's in a restaurant's best interest to still provide a modicum of quality for anybody who might venture into their place, even if they might be the unwashed hordes that may never come back again. Good press is good press, right?

The meal started off pretty well with three fairly delicious appetizers. I ordered the white bean soup spiked with truffles and smoked foie gras. Rich and decadent, it was a delightful flavor that hit you with luxurious and silky notes, and somehow managed to combine two very strong and powerful things into an altogether pleasant dish.

Texas had a poached farm egg in a bed of buttermilk mashed potatoes, old bruges cheese, and brown butter topped with asparagus. The whole dish was very good, with the egg and potatoes mixing well into a nice creamy, buttery finish. With the strong cheese taste providing some punch, it was like a thicker cream soup.

The rest of our dinner party had the casserole of wild mushrooms, frog legs, and escargot in a green herb sauce with garlic chips. With the featuring of frog legs and escargot, the overwhelming taste was of butter, complimented with some amount of depth and earthiness. It was a little thin for my tastes, but still fairly good.

If the descriptions of the appetizers seem a little short, it's because what followed went from decent to regrettable to outright bad. On the better side was Baboon's duck breast, served with quince, ham, blood sausage, and croquettes, with sauce made from Rochefort 10. Decently cooked (though a little done for my tastes), at the very least, the flavor combinations were on. But all in all, it was a dish that was... just fine.

Similarly, the braised rabbit for G and HR Intern was okay. Though it did came late, as our server wrote down the wrong orders, the restaurant did us the solid of sending a salad while we waited (though, honestly, a perfunctory one). When the rabbit came, it was at best unmemorable, and at worst a mismatched set of ingredients. Taken in pieces, the individual components were fine, but were sort of mish-moshed otherwise, with two tiny misplaced crawfish and a silly tarragon jus (at least the salsify and Jerusalem artichoke were fine).

My monkfish, with savoy cabbage, celery root, and lobster beignets in a Duvel beurre blanc was decent but also a curious mix. For one, the monkfish came in small fried chunks as opposed to a long filet, and was dominated by both the sauce, and the strength of the lobster flavor. All the same, my memory of the dish is one of blandness.

But perhaps the worst entree was Texas's pot of "mama greta" mussels. Unlike virtually every other mussels dish on the menu, this one was weak and thin, owing to its broth, which seemed to consist, self-admittedly, of lots of vegetables. No cream, not even a strong white wine flavoring. Just the taste of peppers and celery. This, to me, represented the dirty downside of Restaurant Week: restaurants mailing it in with subpar dishes below their normal quality.

If that were the ignominy of the dinner, it might have been tolerable, but the dinner pressed on to the dessert round. This battle quickly became who had the worse dish. On one end were G and Texas's Belgian chocolate "flan," the quotes indicating that it was more like a weird puddle of pudding than any sort of custard. On the other hand, the marshmallow cake bar was so rubbery that the two of them struggled to even cut it in two (imagine Flubber). And all of this is ignoring the passion fruit sorbet, which was so sour that everyone's reaction was one of, "Ohhhhhh."

On the other hand was my dessert, a cake of cubed poached pears held together by globs of beer gelee topped with a rosemary crumble, and sided by a sweet pear sorbet. The pears were mushy and acerbic, the gelee was bitter and unpleasant, and the crumble had the faint taste of steak rub and licorice. All told, it was not a good dish in any way, shape, or form, save for the sorbet which at least tasted like pears.

And to think, HR Intern's Belgian cheese plate was the best dessert.

The Verdict

We've heard they have a great waffle brunch, and that it's a gem in the neighborhood. And I know this was Restaurant Week. But, outside of the appetizers, it just wasn't good.

Food Rating: ** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 3 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Hipster Hangout
Vibe: Energetic
Cost: $$$ (out of 5) ($50-$75 for two)
Pairing: Stock up on supplies, or take a cooking class at Hill's Kitchen.

Blackbyrd Warehouse, Part Deux

2012-01-24T10:00:00.001-05:00

This Part Deux finds us revisiting somewhere we gave a First Look at on Day Two of its opening: Blackbyrd Warehouse. Joining me on this re-return was Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas.

The Food

Unsurprisingly, the menu has greatly shifted since we showed, to be expected when a kitchen is still trying to figure out what works and what doesn’t. What remains the same is a seafood menu that heavily features a raw bar, which served as the reason for this particular trip. Texas and I had been craving an oyster happy hour, and with absolutely no room at the bar at Pearl Dive, Blackbyrd was an easy alternative option. First up were $1 oysters, with us having six apiece. They were fresh and decently shucked, and the particular ones offered at happy hour were actually real good.

Along with the oysters, we also got peel-and-eat shrimp cocktail. I can’t remember what spice they put on the shrimp (cayenne, maybe?) but it was real good. The shrimp was perfectly cooked, and the dish was so good that Texas saved it for her last bite.

Lastly, we split the lobster mac-and-cheese. The ingredients for this were fantastic, but sadly didn’t mix well together at all. The lobster was wonderfully tender and the cheddar was potent, but together they clashed with too much strength on strength. A lighter, white cheese that was creamier would have made this dish.

The Verdict

Still good seafood, still working on everything else.

Food Rating: *** (out of 5)

Taylor Gourmet, Part Deux

2012-01-23T10:00:00.000-05:00

This Part Deux revisits a second location of a place we've been before: the new 14th Street location of DC sandwich shop Taylor Gourmet.

The new location, at the old Ruff and Ready storefront, shares man of the same traits as the others: a garage feel, recycled materials as furniture (see: plastic bucket light fixtures). This location is more deli counter feel with dividers creating a natural line to the cash register. From there, there are a few four-tops, some long tables, and a row of high bar tables by the far wall.

On the docket for tonight were two sandwiches, a Lombard Avenue (sopressata, genoa salami, roasted red peppers, pesto, mozzarella) for me and a Tasker Street (arugala, sharp provolone, parmesan, mozzarella, goat cheese) for Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas. The sandwiches were again real good for me, wonderful salami and fresh ingredients on lovely semolina bread (Texas: "everything was quality, and the bread was awesome"). On Texas's end, her sandwich was probably a bit too loaded with cheese, but that was probably not Taylor's fault.

The Verdict

Still great sandwiches, especially for Northeastern expats.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)

District Commons

2012-01-19T10:00:00.000-05:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Foggy Bottom

The Setup

Needing a place to eat dinner in Foggy Bottom, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I decided to check out the new addition PassionFood's new addition, District Commons.

The Vibe

Back when I went to GW, we used to lament the state of Square 54, an empty lot that was the site of the old hospital, now reduced to a pile of rubble sitting vacant and unused despite its tony location. Of course, when we graduated, they started construction on an ambitious mixed-use monstrosity. Its ground floor is almost entirely filled with eateries, dominated by a large two floor Whole Foods. On the opposite side is District Commons, clean-cut, put-together, and fairly large.

Enter in the glass revolving door, and you arrive onto a platform in front of the square bar beyond the hostess stand. Beyond that and wrapped around the curve of the wall is the large open kitchen. The dining area itself is three long lines of tables, one a set of fours and sixes, one a set of twos and fours, and the other a row of window-side booths with curtain dividers. The color scheme is browns and grays, with wood linings alongside concrete pillars. Circular light fixtures provide a soft glow as do the candles on the tables and the streetlights outside the large windows. Perhaps the only flaw is that, despite the large space, the twos are fairly bunched up together, unless you score a booth.

Service was a little weird: four different people came and talked to us, and at one point we thought our server had just outright changed. The one that settled on us started by recommending and fully describing half the menu (unsolicited I may add).

The Food

After the actor's monologue about certain dishes, we decided to play along, ordering three dishes he had recommended. First we split the "red" mussels (as opposed to the "white" and "blue") - a red thai curry with golden pineapple. In comparison to other mussels we've had around this fair city, these were fairly... bland. For the description, I wanted to get hit with some spice and some sweet and instead we got some fairly rubbery mussels with middle-of-the-road flavors.

If we thought we'd be rescued by the entrees, we were sorely mistaken. On my end, I ordered one of the flatbreads: the Mediterranean, merguez, eggplant, kalamata olives, feta, and pomegranate molasses. On the face of it, this should have at least have been interesting, but everything about it was bad: too dry sausage, not enough molasses sauce or anything else to marry the toppings together, and not enough toppings to make up for it. Rather than a warm crisp flatbread, this was more like a dry cracker.

Texas's roasted vegetable pot pie suffered from the opposite problem. Cracking open the crust revealed the insides were more soup than filling, watery instead of chunky. The butternut squash and parsnip and celery root should have made for a warm, creamy bite, but instead it tasted like thin and flat vegetable soup.

The Verdict

For a space that nice, and a location that tony, a sorely disappointing meal.

Food Rating: * 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 3 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Classy Crowd to Suits Scene
Vibe: Energetic
Cost: $$$ (out of 5) ($50-$75 for two)
Pairing: After this meal, you'll probably need another meal anyway, so swing by the Whole Foods and play Iron Chef with one another. Pick out five ingredients for each other and cook a meal together.

Cafe Indigo

2012-01-17T10:00:00.000-05:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Rappahannock, Virginia

The Setup

Part two of our Inn tour (or three I guess), Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas stopped by Cafe Indigo for the other dinner that weekend.

The Vibe

Cafe Indigo is a charming little restaurant tucked away in the back of a little barn-like complex, called River District Arts, home to an art cooperative, with open artists' stalls and a studio (similar to the Torpedo Factory in Alexandria). Walking into the space, you get hit with a sudden and comforting scent of pistachios or almonds or whatever the store up front is selling at that point.

The interior of the actual restaurant is a modernized barn, in a totally non-perjorative way (we personally love that aesthetic). Wooden cross-beams overhang the restaurant space, bathed in white and the restaurant's eponymous color. On one side is a small bar and an old piano, while in the back is an open kitchen. Everyone is warm and friendly, and the space is handsome and inviting.

The Food

The chef at Cafe Indigo has a great provenance, having worked at The Inn and Bourbon Steak. The menu therefore is simple, straightforward, and interestingly put together.

To start, we split the butternut squash soup with curried crispy rice. This was perfectly fine, though fairly ordinary in retrospect. Unlike some other autumn soups, this wasn't as rich and full as I wanted it; in fact, it was a little thin. Similarly, the rice crisps vacillated between interesting and distracting. I don't very much like rice cakes, but that's what it tasted like.

For our main course, I ordered the aged ribeye served with swiss chard, potato croquettes, carrots, and cipollini onions in a red wine sauce. This was a much better step, seared well with a lot of flavor, and wonderfully seasonal considering the cold weather outside. In fact, it was so good that the ethical eater Texas decided to switch plates with me.

In return, I received her order of day boat halibut, with cauliflower cous cous, lemon gremolata, and crispy shallots. The mix of cauliflower flavor and lemon and garlic was a perfect match with the soft halibut, and the bed of spaghetti squash underneath made for a wonderful texture contrast while still matching the overall flavor profile.

Last up was a pumpkin tartlet with whipped cream. This was a solid hit of pumpkin flavor, like opening up the oven while baking a pumpkin pie on Thanksgiving. It was smooth and perfectly fine, though again, nothing to call home about.

On the way out, we walked over to the kitchen to see what the chef was cooking that smelled so wonderful. Braised beef tongue... until next time.

The Verdict

A good meal in a great space.

Food Rating: *** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 4 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Quiet Drinks
Vibe: Calm to chatty
Cost: $$$ (out of 5) ($50-75 for two)
Pairing: Besides the art space, the Cafe shares a lot with Copper Fox Antiques, a cavernous space with a wide and interesting collection of antiques, and the Copper Fox Distillery, which offers hourly tours of its whiskey-making plant.

24 Crows

2012-01-16T10:00:00.000-05:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Flint Hill, Virginia

The Setup

On our weekend trip out to The Inn, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I needed more than one place to have a meal. The first suggestion from our innkeepers was 24 Crows.

The Vibe

The team behind 24 Crows were the former owners of Four and Twenty Blackbirds (get it?), a restaurant that regularly appeared on the Washingtonian Top 100 in the earlier part of the decade. Instead of the regular service of that now-closed restaurant, this roadside cafe opens only for lunch every day from 10am-2pm. And the descriptor cafe might be a stretch: the space itself has maybe 12 seats, which seem perpetually full. All the other space is filled with curios and craft goods, so much so that you'd think you were in a gift shop, not a restaurant.

The Food

24 Crows fashions an ever changing menu on two small glass panels every day, with maybe three to five options for the four hours it's open. On this trip, Texas and I decided to start by splitting an old-fashioned tomato bisque with homemade cheese croutons. I'll start by saying I'm not a fan of tomato soup; I just don't get it. But this just about changed my mind. For one, there were actual chunks of tomato and onion, so it felt less like a puree and more like a soup. More importantly, the croutons were life-changing. It's hard to be hyperbolic about toasted cubes of bread, but if ever a batch of croutons merited it, these were them. Like little pieces of complex cheese flavor with a satisfying crunch.

For the main course, I had the house-roasted roast beef sandwich, with baby arugala, roasted red peppers, and rosemary aioli on ciabatta. I used to work in a deli, so I know the value of making the roast beef in-house. This was much better than anything our supermarket used to crank out, with wonderful punch from the aioli and richness from the roast beef.

Texas had the pan-fried Idaho trout sandwich with applewood smoked bacon, lettuce, and smoky red pepper mayo on challah bread. The fish had a wonderful crisp on it, and was matched perfectly in punch by the bacon and the mayo. Together, with the challah, it was a wonderful gooey bite.

The Verdict

Wonderful, delicious food. Just be sure to grab a seat early.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 2.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: N/A
Vibe: Calm
Cost: $ (out of 5) ($75-$100 for two)
Pairing: Wine tour! Our personal favorites were Narmada and Gray Ghost.

Friday Night Flights: Gray Ghost Vineyards

2012-01-13T10:00:00.000-05:00

On our trip out to the Inn at Little Washington, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I stopped by Gray Ghost Vineyards, on the suggestion of a friend who lives out there. Open for a tasting, we decided to stop by and were not disappointed. I'm not a fan of Virginia wines normally, but this was an amazing exception; each of the wines we had were clear, vibrant, and delicious.

Of particular note were three wines we ended up purchasing: a Chardonnay and Victorian White for ourselves, and Reserve Chardonnay for Official Parents of DCWD DV and MV. The Chardonnays were crisp with notes of pear and vanilla, perfect for a chicken or shrimp pasta dish; the Victorian White was on the other hand, an amazing white dessert wine that was sweet without being too saccharine. Definitely recommended for all.

Bar Rating: 5 Cheers (out of 5)
Perfect for: Gift wines, especially for people who love buying local

Oyamel, Part Deux

2012-01-12T10:00:00.000-05:00

This Part Deux takes us one of the first meals I ever wrote about for the blog, Oyamel. With me on this excursion are Official Friend of DCWD Alison, and Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas.

The Food

Before spending the last year on the Thai-Burmese border, Alison had done a yearlong fellowship in Mexico and had studied abroad in Oaxaca, so her knowledge here was definitely real helpful. All the same, we stuck mostly with dishes that were familiar to all.

First up were chilaquiles: nachos that are basically drowning in melted cheese and tomatillo salsa. These were ordered almost entirely because we saw them on the table next to ours and they looked delicious. In fact, they were amazing,dripping in cheese and awesome, so much so that the chain continued when the table next to us asked what we were eating and ordered some as well.

Also to share was black refriedbeans with melted Chihuahua cheese inside, served with Mexican cream, microcilantro, and fresh tortillas. This was better than your average refried beans,owing to its freshness, though to me they were still a tad bit bland.

On the opposite end of the spectrumwere our mussels steamed with tequila and a broth of sautéed garlic andchipotle. This had a spicy kick for days that really give a short jolt witheach bite. For me, the subtlety of any tequila was lost because of the spice,and the mussels were sadly a little undercooked.

With the decided lack of meat atthe table (owing to my vegetarian and pescetarian dinner companions), I orderedmyself two tacos: one, a pork belly taco with tomatoes, guajillo chiles,pineapple, onions, and cilantro; and one a Guadalajara-style goat, veal, andlamb taco with cascabel, ancho, guajillo chile sauce, onions, and cilantro. Ofthe two, the pork belly was the more solid, a mix of sweet and savory with alittle heat; the mashup of meats in the other taco made for a cool first bite,but something that quickly because boring afterwards.

To wrap up, we decided to order a tres lechescake. Lovely ice cream, but the cake itself was a little dry for my tastes.

The Verdict

Solid food, and knows what flavors to play up.

Food Rating: *** (out of 5)

First Look: The Hamilton

2012-01-10T10:00:00.002-05:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Downtown, McPherson Square

The Setup

This First Look brings us to the brand new addition to the Clyde's family: The Hamilton.

The Vibe

Perhaps it's appropriate that The Hamilton is so close to the White House; such is the level of grandiosity of just the sheer scale of the place. Built into the former Borders space on F Street, The Hamilton is almost more high-end hotel than restaurant. From its entrance on 14th St, you enter the bar, which is exactly what you'd expect out of a sister of Old Ebbitt's; it's almost like this is the spillover room for the venerable oysters and drink bar down the street. Everything is wood-paneled and old school, like a room straight out of the Untouchables, except for the pictures of DC scenes that abound around the area. The space is kept dim and gets real loud, with the post-work hoi polloi that fill the space.

Past the bar is one dining area, a room that represents the Clyde's influence, though a tad bit more formal. The room, more wood panels and beiges and organized in rows of booths and fours, is a testament to power lunches; the row of booths along the F Street window can actually have sliding doors close them away from the main floor. The strange part of the room, and the part that makes you wonder if The Hamilton even understands its American provenance and American theme is a sushi bar which lines the back wall of the restaurant. Beyond that, another bar, then a lobby like area, then another dining space.

And what exactly is in this lobby? The stairs down to The Hamilton Live, a concert space where the music and movies section of the Borders used to be. But the space is entirely reconfigured into a jazz club like setting. All black with B&W pictures of famous musicians, the room rotates around a small stage, with two-tops lined up in rows extending like sun beams. On the left side and the back of the room are a two raised platforms with a bar each and some rail seating and tables. The music there will almost always be local, and the loudest it will probably ever get is Norah Jones, but it's a decidedly cool date space, and where we spent this dinner.

The Food

In The Hamilton's defense, the menu downstairs is ostensibly much more limited than the real dining room. From these options, Texas and I split the Clams Casino pizza (clams, bacon, roasted red peppers, oregano, mozzarella). The pizza was okay, which is to say that it wasn't terrible, but it was nothing to call home about either. The mix of ingredients was interesting, but the crust was in the middle place between soft and crunchy, so that it pleased neither of us.

For dessert, we split the "hot chocolate" ice cream sandwich: chocolate chili cookies and cinnamon ice cream in a crispy chocolate shell. This was a little more notable: some nice heat from the cookies, and the ice cream was interesting, though it didn't meld and melt as much as we wanted it to.

The Verdict

Awesome space, meh food. But we're psyched to go back and experience all The Hamilton has to offer.

Food Rating: ** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 4 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Suits Scene
Vibe: Chatty in the room, Noisy in the bar and live space
Cost: $$ (out of 5) ($25-$50 for two)
Pairing: Itself. I mean the Live space is a wonderful date.

Equinox, Part Deux

2012-01-03T10:00:00.001-05:00

This Part Deux brings OfficialGirlfriend of DCWD Texas and me back to one of my favorite haunts: Equinox.

The Food

Texas has a rule with meat, oneI’ve mentioned a few times here: if the meat is locally-sourced and farm-raisedrather than factory farming, she’ll eat it. Which means that Equinox is rightin her wheelhouse, as Todd Gray is one of the pioneers for local food in theD.C. food scene (that he also is on the forefront of amazing vegetarian menuswas something I forgot to mention). So on this trip, Texas ordered the roastpork with heirloom sweet potatoes, braised escarole, and pears. This dish wasbeautifully seasonal (despite its posting date, this dinner was back inOctober), the pork and sweet potatoes mixing to create a warmth and depth thatwas perfectly autumn. The pears were a perfect touch, adding a bit of sweetfinish to each bite.

For my part, I had the duck, servedwith roasted jerusalem artichokes, wilted swiss chard, and a cranberry jus. Mymom very much dislikes turkey, so much so, that our holidays are dominated bygoose and duck. Because of that, this dish also fell into my sense of bothautumn and home; the flavorful duck, tender leaning toward the rare side,complimented well by the rich, almost starchy notes from the artichoke and chard. Maybe not thebest duck ever, but definitely an enjoyable dish.

I originally wasn’t going to writeabout this dinner, instead letting this dinner just be. But the dessert was sooverwhelmingly good, so superlative, that it demanded to be shouted from therooftops. The treat in question was the dark chocolate custard, topped with LeopoldBros. absinthe ice cream, and plated with coffee soil and sea salt. Everythingabout this was a study in delicious. The oh-so-rich creamy feeling of thecustard which lingered in your mouth countered by the granular soil, the headytaste of bitter licorice from the absinthe that left a slight intoxication witheach subsequent bite, and the perfect balance of flavors that commanded yourattention: sweet, then salty, then sweet again.

The Verdict

Still awesome after all these years.

Food Rating: ***** (out of 5)

DCWD Travels: Anderson's BBQ, Dallas

2012-01-02T10:00:00.000-05:00

Deep in the heart of Texas, next toa hospital and a gas station, is one of the state's best kept secrets. At leastthat's what Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas's brother-in-law P (nay, everymember of her family) has been telling me about Mike Anderson's BBQ, adiamond-in-the-rough barbecue place in an otherwise nondescript section of thecity. Having been revealed as a foodie way before my arrival, the five-day triphas seemingly been anchored by the question “So when are you going to go toAnderson’s?” as if to say, “You can’t call yourself a food lover until you’vehad authentic Texas barbecue, and so we’re giving you only the best.”

It’s funny then that a restaurantwith this much acclaim can look so conventional at the outset. Anderson’s looksmuch like one would expect any other roadside pitstop to look like: orange andneon green signage on a brown decor, a brick and tile building set upcafeteria-style and decorated like a cabin, but with Texan and rodeoparaphernalia. To wit: the space is centered around a tray sliding line, loadedwith a veritable panoply of salads and sides, which almost demand that you get a BBQ plate. Atthe head of this line is the carving station where the meat is ordered. Thesmells emanating from the grill behind are indiscriminate, insofar as they allsmell delicious.

P talks me into the aforementionedplate, which features a sandwich with two meats and two sides. I order a beefbrisket and pulled pork sandwich, coated lightly with barbecue sauce, andflanked by my choice of fried okra and garlic and cheddar smashed potatoes, anda large sweet tea. Everything about this was fantastic: the tenderness of thebrisket, the sweet tanginess of the house BBQ sauce, and the heart-attack levelawesome of the smashed potatoes. The pulled pork is okay, but my best bet wouldhave been the Polish sausage that P lets me sample. That and the brisket on asoft bun would have been something to behold indeed.

Taste Test: 4 Forks (out of 5)

Perfect for: Barbecuefans

2011: The Year in DCWD

2011-12-30T10:00:00.000-05:00

Homemade duck pho

Long-time readers of the blogs (or even just Official Friends) will know that I am nothing if not a fan of ranking things. And lists. And metrics. So just like last year, we're going to try and measure the best and worst of what we've had this year. Not like last year, we're going to do this more paragraph-style.

Included in this best-of-worst-of are meals that we both had this year (so, minibar, Rasika, I still love you, just not here), and that we posted about this year (thus the mad rush this week). We're also using a similar formula to measure Hype as last year (though, this time we're only using Washingtonian rankings). And yes, I fully admit that most of these metrics are completely arbitrary.

Anyway, it being that time of year after all, the Official DCWD 2011 Best and Worst Lists:

Drinks at The Cajun Experience

The Worst:

Let's just get this over with. Being bad is one thing, lots of places suffer from the disease of meh. We had some terrible service at Urbana (though they later shaped up) and not-so-good food at Vento (man, shape up P Street!). We had restaurants that came nowhere near their past performance (Bibiana), or their lofty Washingtonian hype (Cafe du Parc)

But the winner (or loser, I guess) by far is Montmartre. Awful service, mushy food, but with the added burden of expectations; you wouldn't know it, but the place has been in the Top 100 four years running now.

The Best:

Dessert at Cafe Boulud

First, some minor awards. Buzz Bakery wins this year's Little Cafe/Bakery That Could Award (last year's winner, also a NoVa product, Northside Social). Owing to its relative low cost, it killed the competition in best bang for your buck and produced a range of quality baked goods that is just missing in the district. We need more of you in the district, Buzz Bakery; I don't just want cupcakes all the time.

Honorable mention goes to Bar Pilar, but by far our favorite cheap but awesome date was Comet Ping Pong. Sit aside, 2 Amy's, there's a new best pizza in town. Comet also wins points for also being the most fun waiting-for-your-table experience: grabbing a beer, and playing some ping pong before dinner = freaking awesome.

Now for the also-rans. This year, we went to plenty of places that gave us great times but also nearly broke the hype meter: the two devastatingly cool 14th Street relative newcomers with delicious food but no space at the bar on a Tuesday night in Pearl Dive Oyster Palace and Estadio. And the granddaddy of hype: the up-and-down flavors but definitely fun-with-food experience that was Rogue 24. Both were great, but not enough to break into the Top 7.

Radish carpaccio at Obelisk

2011 was also filled with checking off restaurants from the uppermost echelon of D.C. cuisine, and most of them met their lofty hype, but also left a large dent in our wallet. So while Marcel's, CityZen, Obelisk, Sushi Taro, and The Inn at Little Washington all provided some great meals, they all were just not as competitive in our quality-to-hype, or quality-to-cost metrics. Sorry, guys.

So without further adieu then, the Top 7 for 2011 (Best Food Dates in the D.C. Area):

Comet Ping Pong

7) Comet Ping Pong - We've already said above why Comet Ping Pong is such a cool place for a date: low-key setting, a fun atmosphere, in-house entertainment before and after your meal in the form of friendly ping pong competition. That pizza that good should also live there is just unfair.

6) Posto - Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas, for obvious reasons, has most often been my dinner companion for the second half of the year, and she would literally slap me across the face if I didn't include Posto on this list. Sure, you can have a slightly more white-cloth experience at its big brother Tosca. But our service there was legendarily good. Thoughtful, friendly, and made the fresh pasta that much better.

5) Trummer's on Main - It's sad that some of the most beautiful dining rooms in the area are out in the middle of nowhere, Virginia. This is especially the case for Trummer's, a gorgeous roadside inn with three levels of handsome modernized-country-decor space. Throw in a kitchen that knows how to work its flavors, and a selection of local wine that's actually delicious, and it's well worth the Zipcar reservation.

Beer sampler at Lyon Hall

4) Tallula - To think, we almost left the restaurant, after getting stuck on the Metro and no-showed with a supposed 30 minute wait. But we stuck it out, and I'm glad we did: fried oysters that were alternately silky and crunchy, an inspired pork belly and clams noodle dish, and some of the best duck I've ever had. The best moderate value this year.

3) Fiola - In any other year, Pearl Dive would have run away with the Best Opening of 2011. This was no ordinary year. Fiola is an instant Top 10 challenger, and marks Fabio Trabocchi's grand return to D.C. A cute dining area with a fairly large bar area, an excellent drink program, and the best overall pasta this year.

2) Komi - There isn't much to say. It's a little more expensive than your average meal. It's a decently hard reservation to get. It has the burden of three straight #1's in the Washingtonian Top 100. And yet, it's also the best meal in D.C., with the coolest sommelier on the planet, and food that just literally blows your mind.

Amuse bouche at Eola

1) Eola - Of the restaurants on this list, Eola comes in second a lot. Komi has better food (though Eola has recently switched to only-tasting-menu). Trummer's has a better dining room. Tallula offers more bang for your buck. Fiola is trendier. Posto had slightly better service. Comet's more fun. But when you factor in everything, pound-for-pound, there is nowhere better than Eola. A charming but beautiful dining room that's small enough that the service can be personal. Dishes that are both imaginative but true to their ingredients' flavor. A special occasion restaurant that's less expensive than its culinary contemporaries. Eola is a relatively unknown treasure hidden in plain sight, and 2011's Best Food Date.

The Inn at Little Washington

2011-12-29T10:00:00.000-05:00

Plaudits: Washingtonian 2011 #2, Washingtonian 2010 #11, Washingtonian 2009 #8, Washingtonian 2008 #6
Neighborhood: Washington, Virginia

The Setup

Both Official Girlfriend of DCWDTexas and I were planning a surprise for one another, her for my birthday, mefor the holidays. I was at her house when I noticed on her laptop theWashingtonian Top 100. Worried that we might be planning the same thing, weagreed to say where we had gotten a reservation on the count of 3: “1…2… TheInn at Little Washington!”

The Vibe

The Inn, the celebrated and historic restaurant, sits an hour and a halfoutside the city proper, so it takes a little effort to get out there. But whenyou do, what a treat. Washington, VA is a charming two street town full of oldcolonial homes and friendly people. At the northern end of the town is the Inn,a mammoth building that on its exterior, fits in really well with the rest ofthe town.

The inside though is like somemagic wonderland of opulence. This is the very picture of what I imaginehigh-end French dining rooms were like in the Escoffier era. Tables aregenerally far from what another (though the two-tops in the Garden Room arebasically on top of one another), and each has a fringed red lamp hanging overtop of it. The room is kept dimly lit but there are plenty of open windows tothe garden outside. Everything is patterned with Louis XIV style curlicues orrococo stylings, and everything is luxurious and the very epitome of “eating up,”“hospitality” and “feeling pampered.” And if you want a real treat, ask for atour of the “most beautiful kitchen in the country.” Words can’t understate howcaptivating the surroundings are in terms of “this is what luxury feels like.”

The service though started off realbumpy: for one they wrote the wrong name on the personalized menu, which wouldn’tnearly be as upsetting, if not for the curious way they did it (the equivalentwould be like if my name were Mary-Kate Smith, and they wrote welcome to theMary party!). For another, our first course came without its wine pairing, afact that wasn’t noticed until we had already finished it; of course, thatmeant the second pairing came 10 minutes before its own dish.

Still, midway through, the servicetook a 180, leading to amazing touches of warmth and friendliness from thesommelier who told me that she apologized that everyone kept tripping on myfoot (which I had lazily been sticking out from underneath the table) and toldme she would put a note in that I liked to stretch out; to the maître d’fromagewho not only was incredibly knowledgeable and helpful, but also was incrediblycharming and told some of the best cheese jokes ever; to the fact that thevalet had our car already running and warm when we left the restaurant.Incredibly nice.

The Food

To start the night, were three petit-foursamuse bouches: first, a beet macaron with salmon mousse replacing the cream,second a bloody mary gelee, and the third a foie gras mousse between chocolatenecco wafers. These were fun and inventive, with the foie being our favorite for its combination of savory and sweet.

Under the theory that this was aspecial occasion, and having this write-up in mind, I convinced Texas to go forthe tasting menu with pairing (a decision which gave her substantial stickershock, but she decided she was game for it, though likely helped by the fish to meat ratio). While she was busy growingincreasingly uncomfortable with what she had just agreed to came our firstbite: truffled popcorn, light fresh-tasting popcorn which had black truffleshaved tableside onto it. The Inn is nothing if not generous about the amountof black truffle it uses; a good third of what was shaved ended up on thetablecloth. The popcorn was better than your average movie theater bag, whichhad nothing to do with the truffle (though that certainly made it that muchbetter), but instead resulting in perfect popping and lightness.

If that wasn’t enough, next camethe final amuse bouche, what Chef O’Connell calls “liquid autumn”: a shot glassof warm apple-rutabega soup. The taste and look was reminiscent of butternutsquash soup, but sweeter and with more substance on the back end. The soup doesin fact remind you of a beautiful October day, with its warmth and its lean towardsseasonal ingredients; it was rich without becoming overpowering. This soup wasso good that the next day we bought the cookbook (though of course, we’d findout the recipe is online).

Continuing the trend ofextravagance was our first real course, called "A Tin of Sin": ossetra caviar in a tin on top of a coldcrab and cucumber rillette, paired with a Boizel brut champagne (the one that came after the meal). The caviar was refreshing, a characteristic augmented by the crisp, cold, and tasty cream underneath. Even Texas, who self-admits that her palate isn't refined enough for caviar, had to begrudgingly admit that the salt of the caviar was balanced out by the smoothness of the rillette.

Perhaps the dish of the evening (Month?Year?) came next: day boat bay scallops lightly sauteed with shishito peppers,charred onions, and house chorizo. Oh my, where to start? Perhaps with the immaculatelyseared scallops which left a beautiful char on the outside that provided theperfect crispy, caramelized foil to the tender insides. Or maybe it should bethe peppers, which were smooth and slippery and wonderfully soft, like apoached pear. Or the way the whole dish was altogether light and simple, butexceedingly satisfying and complex. Paired with a 2008 Igreco Filu greco bianco, it was by far the best thing I had that night; even the most cynical scallops hater wouldbe converted by this dish. I can still taste the satisfying mix of textures and savoryflavors right now.

Next up was a filet of sauteed black cod with shrimp dumplings and micro mushrooms on a lemon vodka sauce (paired with a 2006 Fontaine-Gagnard chassagne-montrachet). This dish probably suffered a bit from being right behind a dish of such magnitude like the scallops. Why do I say that? Well for one, in retrospect the ingredients were all solid. The fish filet, like the scallops, was seared beautifully, with a similar crunch to it. The dumplings were way better than many seafood dumplings I've had before, and the mushrooms were quite lovely. But there was no beautiful symphony here, as the pieces just didn't meld together as much as it did for other dishes before and after.

The fourth dish was a fricasee of Maine lobster, potato gnocchi, peeled green grapes, and curried walnuts. This was another dish where the individual components were just awesome, though with more harmony than the preceding one. The lobster was incredibly done, soft and tender and succulent. In any other dish, the little chunks of lobster would have carried the day. Alas, it shared the spotlight with the potato gnocchi, which were like eating little pillows from heaven. Indeed, even the grapes played a glue role, providing a sweet counterpoint and a third texture to play with in your motuh. Perfectly paired with a 2006 Marc Sorrel hermitage blanc from the Rhone valley, this dish was also one of the high points.

Next up was a play on beef wellington, but with the meat replaced by seared tuna, wrapped in potatoes and served with caponata-filled ravioli and bearnaise sauce (paired with a 2007 Evening Land pinot noir from Willamette). The bearnaise was probably the highlight for both of us; for me a recollection of dinners from my childhood, for her a wonderful new flavor. The tuna was well-cooked, seared evenly on all sides. There was just something missing from this dish though, something that would have taken it from good to great.

Last of the entrees was braised veal cheek on top of a risotto milanese and gremolata (paired with a 2007 Montecastro reserva tempranillo). For Texas (the ethical eater), they quickly replaced the veal with short ribs, which made for a similarly authentic experience. For both of us, the texture of the meat was amazing, falling apart at the strands like well-braised meat tends to do; as Texas put it, "it was like they had taken pulled pork and put it together into a single piece." The braise was a little heavy for me, but the risotto was spot-on and the meat was perfect.

Normally palate cleansers are unremarkable and utilitarian, forgotten as soon as dessert comes around; this was not the case. Instead of the bland stuff normally presented at other restaurants, The Inn provided us a pineapple-lemongrass sorbet with pink peppercorn granita. This was not just useful, but refreshing, with hints of sweet and spice that tasted almost like summertime. At times, it felt like this was actually just a first dessert.

Luckily, The Inn gave us the benefit of an actual dessert, which also might have been one of the highlights: a warm chocolate bread pudding with almond icecream topped with shaved black truffle (paired with a 1994 Blandy's madeira port). Upon asking her about it, Texas's reaction was immediately, "Oh my god. It was so good." First the base of dark chocolate provided a needed level of balance between savory depth and sweet high notes. Then the tart underneath provided a wonderful crunch which complimented the smooth and warm gooey of the pudding. And then the ice cream, the literal creme de la creme, combining into such a luscious, superlative high point. This was a combination of simple pleasure and hedonistic indulgence, the tastes of almond and truffle combining into a complex but cohesive taste.

The Verdict

Deserving of the pinnacle of "one of the best in the D.C. area." Some missteps here and there, so maybe not the rarified air that the hyperbole might otherwise suggest. But when it's good, it's capable of making the extremely superlative seem commonplace.

Food Rating: **** 1/2 (out of 5)

Date Rating: 5 Hearts
Dress Code: Business
Bar Rating: Quiet Drinks
Vibe: Calm
Cost: $$$$$ (out of 5) (more than $100 for two)
Pairing: The Inn itself is expensive to stay at, and by the time you finish your meal, you'll need a place to stay (rather than brave the nearly two hour drive back to the city). So make a night of it and book a room at the Gay Street Inn, a bed and breakfast a short walk from The Inn with charming, quaint rooms, and two of the friendliest innkeepers we've ever met.

CityZen

2011-12-28T10:00:00.001-05:00

Plaudits: Washingtonian 2011 #8, Washingtonian 2010 #10, Washingtonian 2009 #4, Nominated 2010 RAMMY, Washington Post’s 2009 Fall Dining GuideNeighborhood:Southwest

The Setup
For my birthday, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas planned an elaborate day’s adventure for us, culminating in a dinner reservation at one of the last Top 10 restaurants left on my list: CityZen.

The Vibe

CityZen sits to one side of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. To one side as you walk in is a small lounge area of couches, to the other a bar with a few cocktail tables and the main dining area beyond. The room is dim (an understatement at best), with the only light coming from glass votive-holding candelabras above.

The main room is a sea of beige and browns, with a row of marble tiled columns separating the row of two-top half-booths from the rest of the fours in the center. At the far end is the open kitchen, which remains in view for most of the dining area (though sadly, not our seats). It’s a contemporary room, but one with a distinct feel of traditional white-cloth restaurant values: the men in jackets and put-together women over soft candle-lit dinner sort-of-thing.

The service was something to be noted. Overhearing that it was my birthday, they sent over a tiny birthday cupcake and a card signed by the staff. Very nice.

The Food

It being my birthday, Texas and I decided on the tasting menus, six courses with pairing. Of note, was that the restaurant had a separate vegetarian tasting menu, which rather than trying to plug eggplants into where meat was on the regular tasting menu, was an entirely separate affair. So for this instance, pescetarian Texas and I went dual routes.

First up for her was a salad ofJapanese yam, kohlrabi, orange, and wilted spinach salad, topped with tapioca balls, sesame, and espelette pepper (pairing, 2009 Kurt Darting gewürztraminer from Germany). Despite the seemingly mish-mashed ingredients, things flowed relatively well together, highlighted by textural shifts between the kohlrabi and basically everything else, and a strong note of citrus. Overall though, interesting without being overly memorable.

My starter on the other hand was a little bit more noteworthy: a play on breakfast food with a soft boiled egg andham flecks with leeks in a ham broth (pairing, a 2006 Marc Sorrel marsanne/roussane from Hermitage, France). This dish was dominated by the ham, and specifically the flavor of salt. The distinct taste of cured prosciutto wasamplified by similar notes in the foam/broth, offset by the pure taste of yolky gooeyness from the egg. Fun.

Second for Texas was her favorite dish of the night: a pickled heirloom pepper arepa topped with a poached quail egg in a green tomato coulis (pairing, 2005 Ramey chardonnay from Napa). It’s obvious why this attracted so much attention from her: the flavor profile was patently Tex-Mex, with the coulis tasting much like tomatillo sauce, and the arepa just the right balance between crispy and soft.

On the other side was my least favorite dish of the night: a lobster “cream puff,” made by placing chilled lobster salad in the middle of an oversized gougere and lathered with lobster newburg sauce (paired with the same chardonnay as Texas). I love all these ingredients, but all the positive notes were drowned out by others; theoverwhelming sensation was one of “this is too cold,” and the gougere was a flavorless and dry version of an otherwise favorite bite of mine. Where was the gruyere flavor? I feel robbed.

Next up in the vegetarian tasting menu was a pearl barley and butternut squash risotto in a spiced tamarind broth(with 2008 La Follette pinot noir from Sonoma). The risotto was actually a little bit soupy in its consistency, reminding Texas of some sort of tomato bisque. Luckily, she actually likes tomato soup so this worked for her. Perfectly decent, but still a step downwards from the course before.

On my end was a pan-roasted crepinette of turbot, with apples and chanterelles in a red wine and foie grasvinaigrette (pairing, a 2007 Escoda-Sanahuja granache/sumoll blend from Spain). I’ll say this, turbot is not my favorite fish. But the pairing with apples was a great introduction of sweet into the dish, and mixed well with thevinaigrette (even if the foie gras notes were minor).Fourth for Texas was vanilla-braised abalone mushroom, served with fennel tempura, melted leek, and an almond pudding (pairing, 2009 Lella Romana, a fiano di Avellino from Conca de Barbera Spain. Texas appreciated this very much, since the braise on the mushroom reminded her of meat. On my part, I thought it was an interesting mix of flavors, but nothing super memorable.

My dish was a stew of corned veal tongue, green tomato, pickled pepper, and fried okra (pairing, a 2001 Marquesde Murrieta tempranillo from Rioja). I’d been chasing good beef tongue since my amazing turn with it at Eataly in NYC (spectrumed by a fairly good version at Sushi Taro, and a horribly chewy attempt in a taco at El Centro D.F.). This surpassed the original, by layering the divinely tender tongue with amazing Southern flavors, adding sharpness and a little bit of piquant. I might have dreams about this dish.

Coming as the penultimate course for Texas was a play on beef borguignonne replete with autumn root vegetablesand a red wine sauce, but with the meat replaced with braised cassava (pairing,a 2006 Escoda-Sanabaja cabernet franc/merlot blend from France). Texas knowscassava well, having spent a good amount of time in Southern Africa, where theroot vegetable is a staple. Here’s something she knows from that experience:cassava is incredibly difficult to change from a starchy, tough-to-chew tuberto basically anything else. So rather than mimic the traditionally tender beefin the dish, it was just unappetizing. In stark contrast to the rest ofvegetarian menu, this was one where the kitchen tried to sub a vegetable into ameat dish (the eggplant-as-meat trend we noted earlier). And sadly, it failed.

But where Texas’s experience was ofdisappointment, my final entrée was one of delight. Small portions ofslow-cooked Wagyu beef sidled next to beef tartare, with heirloom beets and atomato-horseradish emulsion (pairing, a 2006 Poggio sangiovese). Tender to thepoint of effortlessly falling apart, it was a great example of just how to sear beef. Despite how full I was getting, the dish compelled me tocontinue, enticed by the sheer joy of restrained sweetness of beets mixed withoh-so-savory meat.

Capping the night for Texas was apumpkin soufflé with gingerbread ice cream (pairing, a 2001 Volpaiasangiovese), whereas mine was a pecan pie (pairedwith a 1999 muscat from Greece). Both were wonderfully autumnal with delightfully subtle sweet notes hiding behind the warmth. The gingerbread and pumpkin combo was my favorite, as it was something both inventive but altogether familiar, but each was a testament to Matthew Peterson's skill with dessert.

The Verdict

Maybe not the superlative of superlatives, but a wonderful meal with few missteps.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)

Date Rating: 4 Hearts(out of 5)
Dress Code: Business
Bar Rating: Classy Crowd to Suits Scene
Vibe: Calm
Cost: $$$$$ (out of 5) (more than $100 for two)
Pairing: Just two more weeks left for the Hirshhorn's exhibit "Shadows," a 102 painting series from Andy Warhol, shown all at once for the first time. With the curved wall of the museum, it's a breathtaking display of color and art.

Pearl Dive Oyster Palace

2011-12-27T10:00:00.001-05:00

Plaudits: None

Neighborhood: 14thStreet, Logan Circle

The Setup

After literally walking by ithundreds of times, each time with the same, "we totally need to eat theresoon," Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I finally set a time toactually attempt getting a seat at 14th Street's new "it" restaurant:Pearl Dive Oyster Palace.

The Vibe

Pearl Dive is immediately visible from the street, as its front windowrolls up like a garage door, giving the impression that the bar is literallyoverflowing onto the sidewalk. This might not be far from the truth: with aprime location in the ongoing 14^th St revitalization and with thebenefit of Jeff Black’s sterling pedigree, the restaurant seems perpetuallypacked. This is mitigated somewhat by Blackjack, the twin bar upstairs (thoughone that is sadly closed on Monday nights, which this was) and the restaurant’sdeli counter ticket system for tables. This is perhaps the coolest innovationof the whole restaurant: it’s alternately informative, telling you exactly howmany parties stand between you and a seat, and maddening, as it only amps upthe haughty “why are you lingering looks” that flow one-directionally from thebar area to the tables. The counter even disaggregates by twos and fours. Thespace itself also seemingly keeps the wait in control; the small bar area inthe restaurant fills up quickly, which actively discourages stand-and-waiters.

The restaurant’s décor wonderfullymimics a seaside warehouse without becoming perhaps too cartoonish (see: Box,Tackle, the original), albeit with one rather large anchor and chain hangingfrom the ceiling of the bar (I’ll forgive it). White and beech-colored wood andplaster chip to reveal exposed brick, fading the cleaned-up bar area into asort of distressed post-factory dining area. The space is softly lit, though withmore of a beige ambience than the orange captured in the picture at left. Theonly main obstacle to it being a great date space is the organization of thedining area, with tables organized in the sort of cluttered way that makes youthink they just wanted to cram as many seats into the space as possible.Pathways between tables are model-thin, and the two-tops are more on-top-of-each-otherthan perhaps anywhere else in the city. Strangely too, some tables are givenwhite tablecloths, while others are left bare. If you’re lucky, you’ll getseated at one of the booths that line the two sides, like we did on this night.

The Food

As a matter of course, Texas and Iordered not only a plate of six off-the-board oysters, but also one of PearlDive’s many cooked oyster options. Quite impressively, the restaurant offersnot only the traditional mignonette, but three other diverse sauce options, ofwhich our server was gracious enough to let us sample all of them. The oysters(Kummo, CA; Skookum, MA; and Chincoteague, VA) were nice and clean, andfinished well with the yuzu-mirin sauce (hands down our favorite).

For oysters, part two, we opted forthe grilled east coast oysters, topped with garlic, red chile, creamery butter,and gremolata. I’ll say this: if you haven’t ever had an oyster, or you justlike the pure slimy and sumptuous simplicity of a plain oyster, then go withthe individuals. But if you’re indifferent or looking for adventure, I can’timagine anything better than these options. Of course, I only had one, but eventhis relatively easy preparation trumped everything other cooked oyster I’veever had (I’m looking at you guys, Marvin, America Eats, Bayou, etc.). Tooknothing off the table when it came to the joys of oysters, but gave it asmokiness and piquant that was lovely.

For our main courses, Texas ordereda crawfish etouffee, served with rice and garlic bread. This was a slight downnote on the night, as the crawfish flavor sort of dominated everything else, and didn't let the other seafood or rice or even the spice kick through as much as either of us wanted. A little bit more balance and this would have been real good.

On the other hand, I decided to complete mynight of oyster overkill by ordering the genuinely interesting braised duck andoyster gumbo. This was awesome for any number of reasons: the savory and rich duck, the surprise every-so-often of a sumptuous oyster, wonderful Southern flavors, and just enough kick to keep it interesting. Unlike the etouffee, this had a wonderful balance, with feelings of warmth and salt and a lovely depth.

The Verdict

Fresh flavors, top notch seafood, delicious food. Worth the wait.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)

Date Rating: 3.5 Hearts(out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Party in the USA
Vibe: Noisy
Cost: $$$ (out of 5) ($75-$100 for two)
Pairing: The BlackJack bar is itself an awesome venue with apparently an amazing kitchen in and of itself, but it's also the perfect place for a pre-dinner drink and to wait out a table.

BLT Steak

2011-12-26T10:00:00.000-05:00

Plaudits: Washingtonian 2011 Top 100, Washingtonian 2010 #22, Washingtonian 2009 #11, Washingtonian 2008 #39, 2010 RAMMYs - Nominated Power Spot of the Year

Neighborhood: Downtown, KStreet

The Setup

With a gift certificate in hand anda friend date long overdue, I invited Official Friend of DCWD Swizzle out todinner at BLT Steak.

The Vibe

BLT Steak is a white-clothrestaurant posing as a casual restaurant posing as a white-cloth restaurant, ifthat makes any sense. It’s high-class and it knows it, a boutique steakhousethat shines in sleek modern lines, and browns and beiges and whites.

Yet thereare the minor touches here and there that have heralded the revitalization ofthe trendy middle-class restaurant: a big stick-on board menu and the absenceof actual tablecloths among them. But the giveaway is the set-up, which seemsdesigned for power lunches; the two-tops are mostly if not all half-boothsaround the edge while the center is filled with fours and sixes and larger.

The restaurant is built for this purpose in other ways too: the long bar asyou walk in, the dim lighting, the black and white photography and giant floraldisplay in the center of the dining area that make up the décor, the dimlighting. The downside is that the space does not control the ensuing noise,and so by the middle of your meal, you’re practically shouting to your dinnerpartner.

The Food

I would normally ignore the breadcourse, but these particular servings was lovely. Yes, servings. First camesome chicken liver pate with wonderfully crusty bread. Then, popovers the sideof your fist with a lovely buttery, slightly cheesy flavor. What a great start.

Having promised Swizzle a steakdinner to make up for the time passed between dinners, we both ordered a cut of meat with a side. Steaks at BLT can be ordered withone of eight sauces, and they’ve added a whole new category of cooking to the whole rare to well done spectrum: blue(which I assume is basically just raw meat, which sounds both delicious and unappetizing). I had the filet mignon with béarnaiseand truffled mashed potatoes, while Swizzle ordered the aged NY strip withcreamed spinach.

The steaks were both immaculatelywell, though the NY strip had a char on it that might be discomforting if you’renot into that kind of thing; for me, since the steak was just a hairovercooked, this was more of a symptom than a problem. Still, the filet wasspot on, tender and juicy and fantastic. The herb butter was well composed and meltedtogether with the meat perfectly. As for the sides, the mashed potatoes wereokay, though lacking a little in the amount of truffle flavor that wouldjustify paying the extra for it over other potatoes; the creamed spinach wasless sweet than say Boston Market’s (hey, it’s the only comparison point Ihave, and I love that stuff), but this was a good thing, tasting delicious.

The Verdict

Great, great steaks; some of thebest, if not the best I’ve had in DC. Though a little expensive and loud if you’renot in the power lunch set.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)

Date Rating: 3 Hearts(out of 5)
Dress Code: Business
Bar Rating: Suits Scene
Vibe: Energetic to Noisy
Cost: $$$$$ (out of 5) (more than $100 for two)
Pairing: Quick before they go away: head down to the Ellipse and check out the National Christmas Tree, and the individual state trees.

Monday Munchies: Florida Avenue Grill

2011-12-19T10:00:00.001-05:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: U Street/Columbia Heights

The Setup

Hyped as the best breakfast in DC, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I headed over to the Florida Avenue Grill.

The Vibe

Growing up in NJ, I have a fondness for diners and greasy spoons that is both inborn and unhealthy. Sadly, diners in DC are both few in number and often misnamed (most notably, the rather upscale Diner in Adams-Morgan). For this reason, one second in Florida Avenue Grill flooded me with the sort of happiness normally reserved for airport reunions. The restaurant is small, spartan, and looks like it was cobbled together from an assortment of spare parts back in the 70s. A row of booths, a diner counter, and a griddle-grill all clamor together in parallel lines creating a weirdly workable space. The space is small enough and the demand large enough that seated patrons seamlessly get replaced with others, a dance that was apparent on this bustling Sunday morning visit.

The Food

Sitting directly across from the griddle, it was hard for Texas and I not to crave the hotcakes, so we ordered up a bunch along with some biscuits and eggs and sausage. The hotcakes are huge, the size of dinner plates, and generously coated in powdered sugar and cinnamon. They are also delicious, moist and sweet and greasy in a good way. The proof is in the pudding in the picture at right; I had devoured half of the plate before remembering I might want to take a picture of it for the blog's sake. Foie gras it's not, but all the more satisfying, recalling both New Jersey diners and late night runs to IHOP. But better.

The Verdict

People who say that it's the best breakfast in DC... well they're not far off.

Food Rating: *** 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 1 Heart (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: N/A
Vibe: Energetic
Cost: $ (out of 5) (less than $25 for two)

Cooking Adventures: Supper Club #1

2011-12-15T10:00:00.002-05:00

On this Cooking Adventure, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I sought to make a 10-person meal for the first time in our lives, this time from Ferran Adria's new cookbook, The Family Meal.

Amuse bouche (i.e. holy shit, we timed this dinner wrong, we need something to keep guests happy as we cook) - Individual potatoes au gratin

First Course - Saffron-mushroom risotto

Top 3 Lessons Learned from risotto:
1) Keep the whole thing submerged under broth as much as possible. The recipe in the cookbook led us to be short on broth; luckily we had an extra box of one on hand, so we avoided the disastrous "dry sticky risotto."
2) This probably would have tasted better with chicken broth over vegetable broth (though we had some vegetarians with us).
3) Saffron is expensive, but surprisingly, more expensive at Giant and Harris Teeter's than at Whole Foods. Same amount cost half as much at the Whole Foods.

Main Course - Catalan-style turkey stew

Texas and I made the mistake of not thinking about thawing when we bought the turkey from the Farmers' Market the morning of the dinner. So we fought against physics and time just to get the damn thing to a workable state. The butterball website was invaluable during this period, letting us know that with 12lb. bird, we'd have to invest at least six hours in a lukewarm water bath to get it thawed.

The recipe actually called for turkey drumsticks, but a) where are you going to find that many turkey drumsticks, and b) everyone loves breast meat better anyway. So we worked to break down a whole turkey into pieces. It being only the second time either of us has ever broken down a bird before, it was... messy. But after 30 minutes, we managed to come up with some good things.

The whole time we'd been soaking prunes and raisins in sherry, which would be added to the stew later on, in addition to tomatoes, onions, and pine nuts. This might've seemed like a very long time (oh, and it was), but it did allow all the fruit to really sop up some sherry flavor; it also softened up the raisins and prunes in a way that made them more stew-friendly.

From here, we seared all the pieces of turkey in a large pan (we used a roasting pan set over two oven burners), getting a crisp on each side (or as best we can anyway). Adding in the mixture of vegetables and broth and sherry, it wa actually a wonderful smell and tasted great. We probably would have been better off getting the turkey earlier and letting the meat defrost naturally, but oh well.

Dessert - Yogurt foam with strawberries

To buy a foamer or not to buy a foamer? This was the question. I was adamantly against the purchase, since it's a piece of kitchen equipment we'd only use a handful of times. Texas was trying to convince me that it would make it easier. I won.

And then I lost. Because it actually was truly difficult to whip the yogurt-cream mixture fast enough to get it to foam (or even turn into a whipped cream like froth). Lesson learned.

901

2011-12-13T10:00:00.001-05:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Downtown, Chinatown

The Setup

(this review provided by Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas)

The Vibe

The first thing to say is that it's hard to tell if 901 is a restaurant or a lounge; at times it's swanky, more like a full bar area than a restaurant/bar area combo. It's dimly lit, the only glow provided by some electric blue lighting, a theme mirrored by backlit menus; the menus have some sort of electric light coming from them, so much so that they have to be recharged. The other light fixtures are from hanging glass orbs. Seating is mostly four tops (which was mostly filled with couples, a nice touch). In general, there's a creepy vibe to the place, something mirrored by our server: our waiter was strangely pushy, the kind of person that pushed the specials or the expensive options, but seemed disappointed with you if you didn't choose them. This happened from the beginning, when he gave us a disapproving cluck when we picked ice water ("so... tap then?").

The Food

Our bread course was probably the most interesting of the night: a jalapeno cornbread with an unexpected kick, a little dry but generally good.

My friend that evening ordered the California Club, a turkey sandwich with avocado, bacon, and a lemon aioli on ciabatta bread. He said it was quite good, though the ketchup that came with it was surprisingly a spicy one. I didn't have it myself, as I'm not a meat-eater, so I can't quite add any additional thoughts.

For my entree, I ordered the seared tuna, which came with a wasabi-cilantro pesto, hazelnut rice, and a black pepper sauce. This was just not a good dish; it came served at an odd temperature, and probably as a direct result was overcooked. On the one hand, the tuna itself had no flavor, with anything interesting coming from the pesto drizzled on top of it or the strange pepper-soy sauce combo on the side. Even then, these sauce flavors were definitely distinct, but didn't combine in any logical way. In all, for what it was, there was too much heat and the tuna honestly could have been any protein. I wish they had actually built depth with the flavors, not just attempted to drizzle them on.

Dessert looked good, but after the interesting food and weird service, we were ready to just get out of there.

The Verdict

Disappointing: some good flavors that I wish had the chance to combine, but nothing to hang its hat on.

Food Rating: ** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 2.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Classy Crowd
Vibe: Chatty
Cost: $$$ (out of 5) ($50-$75 for two)

Monday Munchies: Sticky Fingers

2011-12-12T10:00:00.002-05:00

This week's Monday Munchies sees me finally jump back into the world of cupcakery with a visit to Sticky Fingers, the wittily named vegan bakeshop that sits in Columbia Heights across from the Giant on Park. For anyone who doesn't know by now, I am not by any means veggie-this or vegan-that, but Sticky Fingers was the closest place to buy a presumably decent celebratory cupcake in the area.

On this trip, I ordered a carrot cake cupcake and a pumpkin cheesecake. I'll be honest; it's entirely possible I already had preconceived notions about the gluten-free desserts. In a habitually re-told story, I once changed my entire mind about the deliciousness of a friend's lasagna when informed of its use of protein crumble. But to me these were a little dry, missing this je ne sais quoi component that keeps cupcakes together (generally known as the cake portion of cupcakes). The pumpkin cheesecake was better, though still with that underlying taste of oatey starch.

Taste Test: 2 Forks (out of 5)
Perfect For: People allergic to gluten

Trummer's on Main

2011-12-06T10:00:00.000-05:00

Plaudits: Washingtonian 2011 Top 100, Washingtonian 2010 #54, Washington Post's 2009 and 2010 Fall Dining Guide
Neighborhood: Clifton, Virginia

The Setup

Having gone to school in DC, I used to have a strong dislike of all things VA (or as I refer to it to Official Co-Writer of DCWD CC, a "black hole of fun"). But as the years go on, and I get increasingly more 1) domestic, 2) fond of foliage, 3) willing to cross the river to see friends who've moved that way, I find myself eating at more VA restaurants. On this occasion, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I were meeting with her Aunt, and so we picked one of the classiest places we could find: Trummer's on Main.

The Vibe

Clifton, VA itself is a throwback to the 19th century, the kind of place that makes you feel like you should be driving down the road in a horse-drawn carriage (if not a 1950s Thunderbird). Trummer's itself sits on a rebuilt inn on Main Street. The result is absolutely stunning and one of the most beautiful dining areas I've ever seen.

The first floor is cobbled stone walls, but probably the only nod to a country-inn. An underlit marble bar sits stage left with a beautiful modern wooden wine cooler in the back. Up a set of stairs is the "Winter Garden," the setting for our dinner this night. With a color scheme of cream and red, the room is warm and inviting at night, but is probably gorgeous in the daytime, the product of full-length colonial windows taking up most of the wall space. Overhead is a high vaulted ceiling and those wonderful old fan contraptions, while an old wooden floor sits below. On one side of the room are the four-tops, while the two-tops consist mostly of a row of half-booths on one wall. In the center of it all is one-long community table.

It's hard to describe in any meaningful way just how beautiful the space is, or how wonderful the aura is, other than to just simply say, "wow." It's the sort of place that makes you instantly say, this is

The Food

To start, Texas ordered a yucca soup, topped with pineapple chunks, clams, and a coconut foam (the first of several foams on the menu). This was an unquestioned winner, creamy and succulent with each bite, but never over the top in any one flavor direction. The perfect balance was palpable, even in the face of such difficult ingredients; the saccharine pineapple or the briny clams, the starchy yucca versus the lightness of the foam, all of it melded together into a vichyssoise-like consistency that was altogether sweet but mellowing.

The glutton that I am, I ordered two appetizers, undecided between two equally decent choices. On the one hand was a goat cheese ravioli, plated on top of a tartare of smoked salmon held together by horseradish, all in a horseradish foam. The pasta was a little firm for me, and the goat cheese was a little lost, but the whole dish stood up well to the horseradish, which could otherwise have threatened to overtake its complexity.

For the second dish, I had seared foie gras with cherries and a cappuccino foam. It's been a while since I've had a good seared foie gras, but this was pleasant, a rich and fatty texture that was indicated the piece had been well cooked. The cappucino foam was interesting, as was the choice of cherries as the obligatory sweet fruit pairing, but the plate made me both wish I had not ordered two apps and wish this one wasn't the more expensive of the two (by almost twice as much).

For our main courses, Texas had a swiss chard cannelloni served with a mix of tomatoes and other vegetables, pine nuts, and a foam (which in memory, was unremarkable enough to not remember what it was). The cannelloni itself was good, a better representation of fresh, well-cooked pasta than its ravioli brethren from my appetizer, but for me, the dish was just missing something to balance out the chard.

On the other hand, my butter roasted chicken was just about amazing. Pieces of breast resting on a bed of pickled turnips and green grapes in a dijon mustard-tarragon foam, they were amazingly juicy and full of luscious flavor. The turnips and grapes provided great depth to the whole thing, sweet and earthy counterpoints to the soft and tender meat. A wonderfully and beautifully composed dish.

For dessert, we rounded up three of the desserts, the first a frozen banana mousse, with peanut butter ice cream; the second a duo of pumpkin sherbet and cheesecake ice cream, topped with toasted pumpkin seeds and a molasses cookie; the third a pot du creme. Of the three, the first two were solid: delightfully seasonal, with wonderful notes of sweet to accompany flavors that befitted the weather outside. The pot du creme, on the other hand, was all sorts of bad, bitter and murky and unfinishable.

The Verdict

A few notable missteps, but otherwise a kitchen that regularly creates dishes of magnificent balance and compelling flavors.

Food Rating: **** 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Business
Bar Rating: Quiet Drinks
Vibe: Chatty
Cost: $$$$$ (out of 5) (more than $100 for two)
Pairing: We had a devastatingly good local wine (the label of which I asked to keep... that good), that literally came from down the road. I'm usually not into Virginia wines, but if that bottle came from around there, I can imagine that a tour of the local wineries would be a fun time.

The Heights

2011-12-01T10:00:00.001-05:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Columbia Heights

The Setup

Searching for a new brunch between our neighborhoods, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I, along with a companion, headed up to The Heights for brunch.

The Vibe

The Heights benefits from being one of the few independent restaurants in the gentrified (if not corporate) strip of 14th St., which accounts for the line outside its door at 11am on a Sunday. Its decor is best described as rustic Americana, which is to say the spruced-up homey feel that a few other restaurants have tried to create. Sure, it's set in a warehouse-like setting, concrete flooring and exposed ceiling vents. But something about it feels very autumn, maybe the orange and ecru accent walls or the chandeliers trimmed with corn husks. This gap is bridged with a few decorative tweaks: some black and white photography, metal stars, and a large clockface behind the bar.

Seating consists of rows of four-to-six-top booths flanking a central row of four-tops; from my vantage point, I couldn't see a single two-top. The only couple near us sat in a huge booth, which to me at least is a nice positive, providing some amount of quiet in an otherwise buzzy atmosphere

The Food

The Heights, like some of its other EatWellDC brethren, has a make-your-own-bloody-mary menu for brunch. In the spectrum of brunch drinks, bloody marys are a lot like scrambled eggs: when they're good, they're all you ever want to have, but when they're bad, you wonder why anyone ever invented them in the first place. If that holds true, then the choose-your-own-adventure of the Heights' bloody mary menu is like playing Russian Roulette, if the gun was loaded with ingredients like truffled salt, cripsy potato strings, or beef jerky. Somehow, Texas lucked into a free bloody mary, and luckily for all of us, it was delicious, and not the least bit ketchup-y.

Our companion had the huevos motuleños, a bowl of eggs, chicken, plantains, avocado, black beans and salsa. Probably a little drier than other Spanish eggs dishes that we've had, and the chicken was a little flavorless, but at least the plantains were a nice surprise and the eggs were nice.

In a similar vein was the turkey sausage hash, topped with eggs and a cheddar and white wine cream sauce. This was my order, and for me the eggs themselves were a tad overcooked, but the turkey sausage was nicely done and the cream sauce was delicious, leaving the dish decent if you concentrated on the peripherals.

For Texas, she had the Southern fried chicken served with a caramelized onion brown gravy and smashed potatoes. This was a little bit of a disappointment for Texas, the former pescetarian-cum-ethical eater who cowed for this meal based on the local sourcing of The Heights' meat and a sudden desire for fried chicken. A tad dry and not nearly crispy, there was just so much more that we wanted out of the dish that just wasn't delivered, both in terms of flavor and texture. Sad.

The Verdict

Great bloody mary selection. So-so to disappointing brunch food.

Food Rating: ** 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 2.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Hipster Hangout
Vibe: Energetic
Cost: $$ (out of 5) ($25-$50 for two)
Pairing: On the way out, grab a few choice items at the Farmers' Market on Saturday mornings at the beautiful open space between Kenyon and Park for ingredients for a late lunch to cook.

Stuff My Mom Cooks, Pt. 5

2011-11-29T10:00:00.002-05:00

Once again, pictures from my mother's overabundant cooking, this time the two-day Thanksgiving edition:

Day 1:

Wonton cups filled with shredded papaya salad, Thai basil, and dried beef

28-hour beef stew

Orange tea-marinated goose

Poached shrimp with a mango-pepper salad on bird's nest

Rice cakes filled with smoked mackerel

Baked brie with almonds and parsley

Day 2:

Duck pho (seared duck breast, boiled duck meat, duck egg, vegetables)

Duck pho, the finished product

Mini banh xeo with shrimp

Vinoteca, Part Deux

2011-11-22T13:30:00.000-05:00

The Setup

Having literally stepped off a plane after 28 straight hours of travel just an hour prior, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas resuscitated me the only way she knew how: brunch. On this trip, we headed back to an old standby, Vinoteca.

The Vibe

Usually we avoid re-describing the vibe in these Parts Deux, but this is a different case; this was my first trip into the fabled bocce court. The space is small, just a handful seats at an outdoor bar, and two group bench tables; we ended up eating on some bar stools using the railing around the bocce pit. That being said, the back porch is cute, a rustic Italian countryside set-up that must be real nice on dates (if the whole thing isn't out-of-hand crowded, that is).

The Food

For me, there are three small pleasures at brunch: Irish coffee; cheesy grits; and someone else making an egg dish for me at odd times of the day. This meal prominently featured all three. On the first two parts, the Irish coffee was some of the best I've had (oddly enough, it's easy to mess this up... it's called too much Jameson at the expense of Bailey's), and the cheddar grits were fine (which is to say traditional, and not overwhelmingly buttery or cheesy, much to my chagrin).

Texas and I split two dishes: first, two poached eggs on gruyere toast with hollandaise, with a side frisée salad with pulled pork. Poached egg + frisee salad is a pretty regular combination, and this could have easily fallen into a safe category. But the gruyere toast was superlative, a nice flavor addition to the traditional eggs Benedict. Even sans meat, I found myself enjoying the sharp taste and wonderful crunch of the bread.

The second dish was basically a reordered version of the first: a pulled pork sandwich with two fried eggs, goat cheese, and caramelized onions. If the pulled pork got lost in the shuffle on the first dish, it didn't here. Seasoned well, it was mild enough to not overshadow the other ingredients, but still provided enough flavor to pack a punch. If anything, I wished there was more goat cheese on the sandwich, but it's a small quibble.

The Verdict

A brunch that brings dishes as good as the highs of the dinner service, without any of the missteps.

Food Rating: *** 1/2 (out of 5)

Monday Munchies: ACKC

2011-11-21T10:00:00.000-05:00

This Monday Munchies brings us to the small but cute coffee shop/chocolatier ACKC, the 14th St shop that has lately been decorated with a banner that proclaims it the Small Business of the Year.

ACKC's vibe is eccentric, a near riot of color favoring fire engine red. It's part chocolate counter and part laid-back coffee house (replete with local artwork on the wall), with a soft spot for leading ladies. Case in point: all the chocolate drinks are named after famous women celebrities, as famous as Marilyn Monroe to as obscure as Carmen Miranda. On this trip, I had the Lucy: semi-sweet chocolate with chipotle and a dusting of cinnamon. Boy, was this one a hit to the taste buds. The chipotle had a nice kick to it that really surprised me, and was a nice departure from the normal hot chocolate.

Overall, a fun cute place for a pop-by.

Taste Test: 3 Forks
Perfect for: Cold days you want a hot chocolate

Burger Tap and Shake

2011-11-17T10:00:00.000-05:00

(this post written by Official Co-Writer of DCWD AP)

Plaudits: None

Neighborhood: Foggy Bottom

The Setup

Ever since coming back from a semester abroad, it seems as though I can't get enough American food. This has manifested itself lately in a constant burger craving. Burger Tap & Shake being the latest in a string of new upscale burger joints, I had to try it out.

The Vibe

Burger Tap & Shake occupies a space right on Washington Circle, in the new office/apartment building. The first thing you notice when you enter is just how small the area is; it's tiny. I thought there would be a back room to accommodate the lunch hour rush, but no. I can only imagine the line is out the door around noon. Otherwise, the lighting is dim and the seating area is informal. It's a nice mix actually, not fancy but more upscale than your average McDonald's, which I think is what they're going for.

The Food

I got the "Apache Sweat Lodge", a burger with roasted green chilies, pepperjack cheese, smoked onions, and XXX sauce. The burger itself was nice, although not as juicy as BGR and dry in comparison to Ray's Hellburger. The burger was actually spicy, which I enjoyed (many times I'm disappointed by so-called spicy foods which turn out to be only mild to me.) The fries were very good. Think Five Guys' fresh cut taste but less greasy.

The Verdict

Overall a nice burger. Decent value for the money, as it's less than BGR; but not something I'd go out of my way to have again.

Food Rating: *** (out of 5)

Date Rating: ** (out of 5)

Dress Code: Casual

Bar Rating: N/A

Vibe: Chatty

Cost: $ (out of 5) (less than $25 for two)

Pairing: Grab an early dinner, then take a free shuttle to the Kennedy Center (leaving from the Foggy Bottom Metro) and catch one of their free shows for an inexpensive evening.

Fiola

2011-11-15T10:00:00.000-05:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Penn Quarter

The Setup

Looking for a catch-up drink and dinner, Official Co-Writer of DCWD CC picked out Fiola, Fabio Trabocchi's grand return to the DC restaurant scene.

The Vibe
Upscale, classy, a shimmering mix of browns and beiges... and that's just the bar. Fiola is one of the more spectacular dining rooms I've seen, from the modern bar section to the mixed modern dining area. The square bar fills up the whole space when you walk in, with a row of circular high bar tables behind it. A soft glow comes from the light fixtures made of what can be called glass bubbles hanging over the marble bar.

Follow a set of wine coolers and down a small set of stairs to the main space, a mix of country-inn with granite brick walls, to beige leather couches along chocolate furniture and walls. Seating is a diverse mix, from two large half-circle booths on the left, to back-to-back rows of two-tops in the center of the space. Outside of the lack of space for couples, it's otherwise a beautiful space.

The Food

To start, I had one of Jeff Faile's creations (who, we realized, served us at the bar at Palena): a Root Down, a mix of Zaya rum, Carpano Antica vermouth, and root liqueur. I had no idea what any of those words meant, but the mix was a nice warm mix for a cold autumn night.

To start, we started with the recommended meatballs, served with sunny side up egg and pecorino cheese. Housemade meatballs from high-end restaurants are always great, but these were exceptional, the perfect mix of meat and fat. The egg also did a great job of bringing the whole dish together and gave it a nice finish, despite the lack of starch. And spoiler alert: it was the weakest dish of the night.

For dinner, CC and I split two half portions of pasta. The first was tortellini, with goat cheese, sweetbreads, and fennel pollen. People talk in reverent terms about Chef Trabocchi's old restaurant Maestro, and it's clear to see why. The fresh housemade pasta sang, providing a lightness that was surprising for starch. The sweetbreads were as creamy and smooth and well-cooked as any I've had before, especially with pairing with the goat cheese. Still, everything about the dish left you satisfied without feeling heavy.

On the more savory side was the marubini: butternut squash ravioli with quail and rosemary in a roasting jus. This was just amazing; the quail and jus just so rich with the perfect amount of salt, with the squash giving the dish a depth that was perfect for the season. Again, the pasta was well-made, and the flavors were spot on.

The bartender talked us into dessert and suggested the bombolini: donuts filled with ricotta. Crisp on the outside and delightful on the inside, these were little sugary bites of heaven. Followed by some lovely and diverse petit-fours.

The Verdict

Amazing pasta, seasonal flavors, beautiful room. Definitely a great date spot.

Food Rating: ***** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 4.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Business
Bar Rating: Classy Crowd
Vibe: Chatty
Cost: $$$$ (out of 5) ($75-$100 for two)
Pairing: Head down the street to Harman Hall, where the Shakespeare Theatre Company opens Much Ado About Nothing in a week.

Monday Munchies: Rolling Ficelle

2011-11-14T10:00:00.000-05:00

Finding ourselves right smack dab in the middle of a food truck gathering the night of the annual Dupont Drag Race, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I needed to find a truck that suited both of our needs: veggie friendly but with meat options, and most importantly delicious. So we went with Rolling Ficelle.

Rolling Ficelle sells a variety of sandwiches in long baguettes. I'll admit that I had no idea what a ficelle was before this moment, and I'm not entirely sure what it is now (The Google tells me it actually is the bread, not the sandwich). Rolling Ficelle sandwiches are all named after modern artists, from Rothko to Frida Kahlo (an interesting choice), and in this instance I ordered the Davis: chicken breast, parsley, lemon aioli, almonds, avocado, and romaine. The bread was okay, neither as soft or as toasted as I would want it to be. At best, the fillings were like a decent chicken salad, with the almond an okay addition but the avocado almost nonexistent.

For her part, Texas ordered the Klee: hummus, piquillo peppers, Swiss, tomato, and baby spinach. Her sandwich was desperately lacking, with too much spinach and no real filling; all the ingredients were complementary pieces and not star attractions, so it felt like it was missing the key piece that tied the whole thing together. So, at $6, not exactly a steal.

Taste Test: ** (out of 5)
Perfect for: Lots of sandwich for a decent price.

Cork, Part Deux

2011-11-08T10:00:00.001-05:00

The Setup

This Part Deux revisits 14th St standby Cork, with Official Roommate of DCWD Talia (though this happened before the chef change).

The Food

This time, Talia and I arrived early enough to score patio seats on a lovely late summer night. Being a pescetarian, we ordered three veggie friendly dishes to split between the two of us (plus a fish dish, and one meat dish for me). This came along with the pinot noir flight: a wonderful rose champagne, a pinot blanc, and a burgundy.

First up was the avocado, served on grilled bread with pistachios, pistachio oil, and sea salt, a dish so good that the couple next to us ordered two of them. I guess this dish hinges on how much you love pistachios, almost as much as avocados. The texture is lovely, and the avocado is surprisingly mild, balanced out with the salt, but the pistachio is the complementary flavor that brings the whole dish together.

We also ordered the chickpeas in a saffron broth, with swiss chard, tomato, and mint. This was less of a success for us, the chickpeas not soft enough, and the broth not strong enough to make up for it. Great in theory, fun flavor profile, just not great execution.

Last in this round was a Mediterranean sea bream, with fingerling potatoes, parsley, garlic sauce, chili oil, and garlic chips. The crisp of the skin on the dish was nice, but the taste was overwhelmingly parsley, with the herb being made into a paste that the fillet sat on. For all the other subtleties, this dish was very one-note for me.

Still hungry, we went with two more dishes. First, the brussel sprouts served with pancetta, apple, and brown butter. I would have been much more excited about the dish had my bowl come with more than two morsels of pancetta; I kept digging for more, excited to perhaps find a third, but it wasn't meant to be. The brown butter sauce was tasty and everything well-cooked, just not balanced in terms of actual product.

Our second round brought the oil-cured roma tomatoes and goat cheese on grilled bread. From the menu, this wasn't what I was expecting; instead, it came out more like bruschetta (which in fairness, should have been fairly obvious). I liked the combination, and the microbasil that came with it made for a decent caprese taste, but I guess I wanted more punch from everything.

The Verdict

A much lower experience than my first time around; perhaps due to it being just one week before Ron Tanaka left; let's see if Rob Weland of Poste can bring it back.

Food Rating: *** (out of 5)

Pizzeria Paradiso, Part Deux

2011-11-01T10:00:00.000-04:00

On our last trip to Pizzeria Paradiso, Official Friend of DCWD Rajistan and I visited the Dupont Circle location; this time Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I headed for a pizza-making session in the Georgetown version, for the 20th Anniversary of PP, situated in the restaurant's cozy basement bar.

Among the winners from the night are the Bosco (tomato,mushrooms, spinach, red onion, mozzarella), paired brilliantly with a De Proef Gageleer Belgian pale ale. But of real note is the week that PP has planned for its anniversary:

Monday, November 7 – $20 Take Out. Get one large and one small pizza for $20 on take-out orders only.
Tuesday, November 8 – 20th Anniversary Beer Glass Giveaway (one complimentary beer glass with beer purchase)
Wednesday, November 9 – $20 All You Can Eat Pizza and Beer (2 drink max)
Thursday, November 10 – $20 Small Special Pizza paired with an Anniversary Beer
Friday, November 11 – .20¢ For Your First Beer
Saturday, November 12 – .20¢ Topping (Dine In Only. 3 toppings max)
Sunday, November 13 – “20 Free Pizzas” Family/Kids Day. 1-4PM. Kids can participate in a Make Your Own Pizza demonstration with Chef Ruth Gresser; first 20 kid’s pizzas are free. (Old Town location only).

Monday Munchies: Halloween Eats

2011-10-31T16:00:00.001-04:00

Some fun pictures from our Halloween adventures. Disclaimer: we stole most of these ideas from Pinterest:

The spread. We made the banner.

"Candy corn" cupcakes and meringue ghosts.

Melted witches' hats.

Port wine cheese "pumpkin."

"Polyjuice potion."

Monday Munchies: Fast Gourmet

2011-10-17T10:00:00.000-04:00

Plaudits: Washingtonian
Neighborhood: U Street

The Setup

I have been hearing people preach the gospel of Fast Gourmet almost as long as I've lived in the neighborhood. With Official Roommates of DCWD Rajistan and Talia on hand, along with Official Friend of DCWD Chill, we decided to venture off to this hidden gem.

The Vibe

Rajistan and I get into disagreements about this from time to time, so let's just make this plain right here: Fast Gourmet is in a gas station. Yes, it's a separate entity from the gas station, but when you have to walk through the convenience store part of the station to get there, it's basically part of it. That being said, it certainly cleans up nice for its less-than-refined setting. The color scheme is that of black and electric green, with a wall of coolers to one side, and bar seating alongside the outside window to the other. Between you and the lunch counter is a set of plain black two-tops and a high table. On the scale of comfort and decor, it's somewhere higher than a greasy spoon (or compare another way, a little bit better than contemporary Ray's Hell Burger).

The Food

I asked the man at the counter what his preference was, and he led me to the Chivito: a pressed sandwich of pork tenderloin, mozzarella, black forest ham, bacon, green olives, egg, and escabeche marinade. And they came with a side of shoestring fries. Phew, that's a lot of ingredients.

Let's also make something clear here: the main conceit of Fast Gourmet is that its setting and its name belie the quality of its sandwiches. This was delicious. With that many ingredients, there are places where it could go wrong, and certainly if you're afraid of salt, then this might not be for you. But this was a bundle of classic Latino flavors in one savory hulking bite. Honestly, it hit a lot of great notes for me. Plus, the shoestring fries were a nice touch. And they're open late, meaning I am definitely wandering my way back here again.

The Verdict

A very, very good sandwich, for a gas station or otherwise.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 1.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: N/A
Vibe: Calm
Cost: $ (out of 5) (less than $25 for two)

RedRocks

2011-10-13T10:00:00.003-04:00

Plaudits: Washingtonian
Neighborhood: Columbia Heights

The Setup

Looking for brunch and cheap mimosas, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I headed over to RedRocks Pizzeria.

The Vibe

RedRocks sits in a modified townhouse, and retains much of that vibe. Inside is a mash of exposed brick and bright yellow paint and wood flooring. To the left as you walk in is a small bar. Seating seems to be mostly twos with a few fours and because of the size of the house, the actual number of seats is fairly limited. RedRocks does benefit from having a large patio out front, where we sat for this meal.

The Food

Not feeling super industrious, Texas ordered a simple breakfast (two fried eggs, potatoes, a hunk of sausage she gave to me), and I had the Sunrise Pizza (a fried egg, and potatoes). The breakfast was fine (in that it was something everyone could make decently), but the pizza was really the question here: not only is it obviously the lifeblood of the restaurant, but with so many people professing such strong opinions about the pizza here, I had to try it out.

Breakfast pizzas probably deserve their own category, based on the uniqueness of their toppings, but you can still take away a lot about a pizzeria's quality from them. The Sunrise had a lot going for it, namely the nice crisp on its crust (which came hand-in-hand with the blackened taste that's nice), and a decent flavor. Still, sitting there and eating through it, I couldn't help but wonder what the fuss was about. It wasn't any big flavor like Matchbox, it wasn't the richness of 2 Amy's, and it wasn't the total package that is Comet Ping Pong. In short, probably on the second tier with Pizzeria Paradiso and Pete's.

The Verdict

Good pizza, but just not in that coveted first tier in DC.

Food Rating: ** 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 3 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Hipster Hangout
Vibe: Chatty
Cost: $ (out of 5) (less than $25 for two)
Pairing: Head a block west to the Target complex, and fashion at date out of things you can buy for under $10 apiece.

Posto

2011-10-11T10:00:00.003-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: 14th Street/Logan Circle

The Setup

Needing both a high-class place to celebrate, and a pasta-oriented dinner to carb up for the Nation's Triathlon two days afterwards, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I headed over to 14th Street's Posto.

The VibePosto is the sister restaurant to Tosca, and rumored to be a favorite of Obama administration officials, and its decor is likely the reason; it's cushy and white-cloth, but not at the expense of being repressive. Out front is a sizable patio, which seems to be open whenever the restaurant feels like it, rather than by the weather (at least that's what it seems like on my daily walk past it to and from work). Inside is a stone bar to your left as you walk in, set behind glass screens of bright photos of the mood-setting things, like wine barrels or the Italian countryside. Behind the bar is a set of oenomatic machines (which I hadn't seen since The Tasting Room), and whole walls are set in bright honey-colored wood paneling. Separating the bar from the main dining area is a bar-height community table and a brick oven in the back. The main space is a series of fours with a line of larger tables by the curtained front wnidows, and a row of leather half-booths along the right wall. This side is covered with a panel series of sunflower paintings and some photos of leaves. Lighting is dim, especially as the night moves on.

The true nice part about Posto was the service. Our server on this occasion was named Ann-Marie, and she was absolutely a joy (Texas called her the best service that she's ever had in DC). Friendly and definitely knew very well the fine line between being a good part of the experience and being overbearing. She even sold us on an Italian red wine (despite both of us being avowed not into Italian wine). I don't remember many servers, and I've almost never asked for a particular one when going to a restaurant again, but this might be a first.

The Food

With our champagne at the bar, Texas and I shared the polipetti: a mix of tiny pieces of grilled baby octopus, saffron potatoes, and chickpeas on a frisee salad. This dish was fine, which is to say that it was texturally fun, but still sort of bland. This is strange to say in retrospect, since the words "octopus" and "saffron" don't usually coincide with a lack of flavors, but it was just that: an interesting bite, but nothing that was mind-blowing.

When we sat at the table, I talked Texas into trying something she never had had before: burrata. I've waxed poetic about burrata before, and with good reason. Mozzarella stuffed with more mozzarella and cream? Sign me up. Coated with some olive oil and salt and pepper and served with cherry tomatoes, olives, and cucumber noodles, it was an absolute delight (though in honesty, how could you possibly mess that up?).

For our main courses, I ordered the Scapinash, ravioli-like pasta stuffed with a combination of ricotta, golden raisins, amaretto cookie, and brioche in a butter sage sauce. This was a lot of fun for me. Lots of richness from the cheese and the butter, but with a hint of sweet, probably from the raisins and the amaretto. Butter-based sauces are start on a leg up with me, but the sage grounded it well, and the whole dish still seemed hearty, despite its lack of protein.

Texas went with the Bismarck, a tomato sauce and mozzarella pizza topped with ricotta, spinach, and a large organic egg; she also opted to add truffle oil for an upcharge. I like breakfast pizzas a lot so I liked this very much, whereas Texas did not enjoy the egg combination. That being said, it was still a solidly made pizza, and the truffle oil (though a bit like cheating) really did change the pizza up a lot. At the least, we both agreed this was a comparably good pizza to others we've had around the city.

For dessert, we had what Ann-Marie described as a "deconstructed tiramisu." In place of the traditional cake was a shot of hot chocolate, scoops of mascarpone cream and espresso ice cream and a chocolate cookie. Despite its presentation, it actually blended well together. And honestly? It was better than some of the regular tiramisus I've had otherwise: light instead of heavy, multiple flavors instead of the one note of cream. Lovely.

The Verdict

Maybe not the best Italian food in the city, but definitely good, and with some of the best service we've had in the city. We're definitely going back for our next special occasion.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 4.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Classy Crowd to Suits Scene
Vibe: Energetic
Cost: $$$ (out of 5) ($50-$75 for two)
Pairing: This might be a bit of cheating, since I've used Studio Theatre once before, but I mean it's right next door. See there new 2011-2012 season here.

Monday Munchies: Point Chaud

2011-10-10T10:00:00.001-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Two locations, both on 14th Street: one near McPherson Square area, one near U Street/Logan Circle.

The Setup

Official Mother of DCWD MV was craving crepes. I can't explain why, or how she got onto this kick, only that it was the middle of the day on a Tuesday, and she just wanted crepes. So off we (Official Father of DCWD DV, as well as Official Siblings of DCWD Caribou and NAM) went to Point Chaud in Logan Circle.

The Vibe

Point Chaud is like a lackadaisical French cafe. It has some of the hallmarks: bright blue and white tiles with bright marigold yellow walls, those ubiquitous art deco/nouveau posters, and two small cafe tables outside. Still, it always seems dim and dusty no matter the time of day, a fact probably owing to the relatively few lights hanging from the exposed black ceiling above. The rest of the seating is wicker basket-weave two-top after two-top, except for one full booth in the back. It's something that makes you say, "I see where you're going here, but I wish you would just try a little harder."

The Food

Despite the fact there were five of us, we ordered only two crepes, one savory and one sweet. To start we had the tuna, which came with jack cheese, olives, tomatoes, and onions. I had low expectations for this one, mostly because I couldn't imagine how a fish crepe could be any good. That being said, the tuna was actually pretty well done, escaping the fishy-tasting mush that it come sometimes be (see: tuna salad, supermarket). In combination with the included vegetables, it actually was fairly refreshing, more like a summer salad than a crepe.

For our sweet crepe, MV chose the nutella, blackberry, and strawberry. It's hard to see how you can mess up fruits and nutella (short of putting old fruit in there), so I'll take this opportunity to talk about the crepe itself. These particular ones were fairly fluffy, which was a comfort; on the spectrum of crepes, they were more like injera than tortillas. This made for an altogether pleasant bite.

The Verdict

Good crepes, in a nice neighborhood sort-of place.

Food Rating: *** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 2.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: N/A
Vibe: Calm
Cost: $ (out of 5) (less than $25 for two)

Monday Munchies: Things We're Cooking Lately

2011-10-03T11:00:00.000-04:00

A lazy entry for a lazy morning. Things we've cooked lately that are simple, and easily re-creatable:

Watermelon and feta salad with mint on arugala

Heirloom tomato bruschetta with shredded parmesan

Fried squash blossoms, stuffed with mint and goat cheese

Breakfast baked potato, with bacon, eggs, spinach, and mushrooms

Fried green tomatoes benedict topped with bacon

Strawberry, raspberry, and rhubarb pie with almond streusel

Top 5 Things We Learned From These Exercises:

1) Best way to poach an egg? Add some vinegar, swirl the water first, and then drop the egg in.

2) Squash blossoms are delicate, and a pain to work with, but are delicious.

3) Balling a melon with an ice cream scoop is not as easy as doing it with a melon baller.

4) Hollandaise very quickly turns to just fried eggs if you're not careful.

5) Sometimes pie crusts are just easier to buy than make by hand.

Againn, Part Deux

2011-09-29T10:00:00.000-04:00

This week's Part Deux sees us return to Irish gastropub Againn, with Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas, and the Official Family of DCWD.

The Food

It being a group of six, we got a number of dishes, a bunch of which Madison and I had ordered on my first trip. To start, Texas and I split the steamed mussels, in a yellow curry and creme fraiche broth. Served with large chunks of grilled bread, it was a great bowl of mussels with mostly a creamy sensation with just a little bit of heat. Just as it was the first time with Madison, maybe not the best mussels in DC, but definitely a good bowl.

Official Parents of DCWD DV and MV split two appetizers: the first, the beetroot salad with orange, pickled fennel, ricotta salata, spiced walnuts and a honey dressing. The second, on my suggestion, was the braised honeycomb tripe with chorizo, soffritto, fried bread crumbs, and mint leaves. Again, just as it was on my first trip, this was amazing. Savory and rich, with beautiful crunch.

MV and DV's second appetizer was the third repeat of the night: the beetroot salad with orange, pickled fennel, ricotta salata, spiced walnuts, and honey dressing. I hadn't tried this the first time, and it didn't do anything special for me this time either; a pretty standard salad that could be duplicated elsewhere.

The fourth repeat was my entree which I had craved so consistently since then, a sizable piece of pork belly with pork cracklings on white grits, and braised cabbage in a pork broth. The pig worship of this dish aside, the main selling points were still here: the sizable piece of well-cooked pork, the textural shift between smooth, creamy grits, and crisp, savory cracklings, and the overall warmth of the dish. Perhaps a little overcooked on the cracklings side, and missing some of the bitter greens from the last time, but still satisfying.

Unluckily, the repeat trip to Againn wasn't all repeats. The rest of the table went pescetarian, ordering some combination of three fish dishes. Dish one was a pan seared trout on a summer vegetable ratatouille. This was probably the best of the three, but DV and MV disagreed on what exactly was wrong with it; they both came down on its level of salt, which drained away any freshness that the ingredients promised.

Dish two was a black grouper on beluga lentils and Swiss chard in romesco sauce, and one that Texas ordered. For all of its potential and flavor, this dish suffered in execution, namely the amount of grit in the lentils that went uncleaned. This meant an unpleasant bite for Texas, and a pain that lingered for days afterwards. It certainly changed her opinion from a previously highly-thought-of restaurant to one she might hesitate to visit again.

The last dish was a roasted cod on cannellini beans with shaved celery and preserved lemon. For me, this dish was bland, incredibly reductive in its flavor profile as it paired a mild preparation of fish with mild sides to the point that you had lemon and you had salt, and that was it. My 11-year-old brother liked it, but I'm not sure I did.

Fortunately, dessert was a bit of a rebound, though in retrospect, was slightly unmemorable.

Caribou ordered a panna cotta with something resembling ginger snap cookies, while my brother went with the cornbread cake with house ice cream.

Both were flavorful, and from what I recall, built off simple hearty flavors in interesting ways. Still, the best dessert was the one Texas and I split, the basic combination of cookie crunch and vanilla cream and chocolate in a mason jar. Perhaps it was something straight outta Carvel, but it was satisfying.

The Verdict

Good when it sticks to its roots, maybe not so much when it's seafood. Slight downgrade from before.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)

Blue Duck Tavern, Part Deux

2011-09-27T10:00:00.000-04:00

This Part Deux revisits Blue Duck Tavern, this time for brunch with Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas.

The Food

I'd heard amazing things about the brunch at Blue Duck, and so it'd always been on the list for us, but the additional benefit was Blue Duck's commitment to naming the farm that its meats come from. This is a particular imperative for my attempt to broaden pescetarian Texas's acceptable list; as some pescetarians, her objection to meat is industrial factory farming, and provided that its locally-sourced and from a sustainable local farm, it's a possibility for her.

So on this trip, she picked the dish I had been eying: the short rib hash with olive oil and horseradish. Sometimes hash is overly salty, or the meat is just very plain. This suffered from neither of those problems, with a light hash stemming from amazingly tender short rib meat. With some bite coming from some daubs of horseradish, this was just a beautiful meal.

For my part, I ordered eggs benedict, except this version replaced Canadian bacon with a pheasant creppinette. Eggs benedict is one of those dishes that is exceptionally easy in construction, but also easy to screw up. Luckily, this was pitch perfect on every level from the wonderfully savoriness from the sausage to the divine sauce. It almost made me wish everyone would replace ham with sausage for the dish.

Feeling on a good streak, we ordered dessert to share, and boy are we glad we did. Out came a straight-from-the-oven tin of nectarines and blackberries with almond crumble and topped with creme fraiche. I never knew it before that moment, but that was what I had always wanted. Sweet, crunchy, but light, it was a welcome end to a great meal.

The Verdict

The brunch is worth all of the hype. Hands down amazing, and maybe the best brunch in DC.

Food Rating: ***** (out of 5)

Monday Munchies: Codmother

2011-09-26T10:00:00.000-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: U Street

The Setup

Having danced around it since we moved in months ago, Official Roommates of DCWD Talia and Rajistan and I headed to Codmother.

The Vibe

If you didn't know it was there, you would think that Codmother was actually the downstairs portion of Touchdown, the sports bar above it; its door is tucked behind Touchdown's stairs, and its pub decor is fairly similar. It tries very much to be a British pub, and it succeeds. Its basement status gives it that subterranean feel, with both exposed brick and wood paneling on the walls. Framed pictures of WWII posters and newspapers align open spaces, as do a pair of lifesize, stand-in-front-of-them-for-a-photo angel wings. As you walk in, a steady stream of punk music plays overhead, there's a small six-seat bar to the back left, and some bar seating in the front window, but otherwise seating is two-tops in groups of twos.

The Food

To say that the food selection is limited at Codmother would be an understatement (and intentionally so): three entrees, two desserts, three sides, three beers on draft and four on tap. We chose two between the three of us: fish and chips, and a platter with fried shrimp, mussels, and cod; each dish also came with a side of mushy peas (exactly what they sound like: a mush of peas), and I had ordered myself a Wexford Irish Cream.

Things take time to get to you, but they come out piping hot. As for the quality of the food, I guess it depends on your tolerance for grease. To be sure, there is a certain amount of oiliness that comes hand-in-hand with fish and chips, but sometimes it's really a lot. As the only one of us three to have been to the UK, Rajistan didn't think it measured up to the street food he'd had there. Still, for $8, all of us got so much food that we all had leftovers.

The Verdict

Definitely good for a late night, or quick-pick-up, but not.

Food Rating: ** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 2 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Frat House
Vibe: Energetic
Cost: $ (out of 5) (less than $25 for two)

Vidalia

2011-09-22T10:00:00.000-04:00

Plaudits: Washingtonian 2011 #13, Washingtonian 2010 #12, Washingtonian 2009 #7, Washingtonian 2008 #8, Washington City Paper's Young and Hungry Top 50 2009
Neighborhood: K Street, Farragut/Dupont Circle

The Setup

For our date night this Restaurant Week, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I headed to one of my favorite DC restaurants, Vidalia, former home of Rogue 24's R.J. Cooper, and owned by Jeff Buben of Bistro Bis.

The Vibe

Vidalia sits completely underground, down a set of stairs that exits into the lounge side of the restaurant. Entirely black with brown accents, its a sleek six seat bar followed by a row of tables, and then a set of lounge couches leading to a walk-in wine cooler.

On the flipside of a glass divider is the main dining area, a room bathed in cream and cocoa brown, full of clean and modern lines. Seating in this area is a row of half-booths along the divider, a row of twos, and then a set of half-circle booths. Off to one side is a side room, which seems to be completely orange and to the back is a raised level, where we sat for this meal.

The Food

To start, Texas and I each had a cocktail, her the Charleston tea (Firefly, hum herbal liqueur, ginger ale) and me a classic mint julep. Perhaps mine was true to form, but hers was absolutely to die for, just the right amount of sweet and sharp.

These came with our bread course, which was notable in that it was cornbread and an onion focaccia and was served with marmalade. This was followed quickly by a small amuse-bouche: a small and forgettable tartlet that struggles to stand out in my memory.

For my first course, I ordered the pork posole, a stew made with hominy maize, peppers, cabbage, cilantro, and lime, topped with pork cracklings. It was rich and unctuous while retaining some gritty texture from the maize base, with some nice heat and amazing textural contrast from the cracklings. Honestly, I wish I had more of them. Overall, it was interesting while being somewhat traditional.

Texas had the lemon ricotta ravioli, stuffed with summer squash and toasted almonds, and topped with basil and tomato butter. There was a lot to love about this dish. For one, it was a lovely summer bite: strong flavors from the lemon and the squash, creaminess from the cheese, but still overall very light. In contrast to mine, it was more refreshing than filling.

Unfortunately, the meal took a slight turn for our entrees. I had the braised barbecue short rib with cornbread puree, heirloom carrots, and turnips. The best thing I could say about the dish was that it was alright; but as everyone knows, fine is the worst adjective; it is neither horrible nor memorable. The beef was cooked well, but was exceedingly one note.

Texas ordered the chicken-fried quail with butterbean-corn succotash, tomatoes, okra, and scallions, with a sweet pepper relish. This was slightly better than the rib, by virtue of being more interesting, but was perhaps no more memorable. In this instance, the quail was a little stringy and the chicken fry didn't add much to the dish.

Dessert was slightly better. I had a grasshopper torte, a piece of white chocolate-mint mousse with a feuilletine crunch and bittersweet chocolate. It was pleasant, like biting into a chunk of mint chocolate chip ice cream. Though that was pretty much it. Enjoyable, but only in its small portion form.

Texas had the peach-blackberry crisp topped with a pecan-oatmeal streusel and peach-buttermilk mousse. This was a little bit better, fresh with some needed crunch. In a night where a few things missed the mark, it was at least "distinctly Southern."

The Verdict

Definitely down a notch after Cooper's departure. Still good and worth a visit, but not the treasure it used to be.

Food Rating: *** 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 4 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Business
Bar Rating: Classy Crowd to Suits Scene
Vibe: Calm to chatty
Cost: $$$$ (out of 5) ($75-$100 for two)
Pairing: It's Shear Madness time at the Kennedy Center Theater Lab. Head over to the iconic theater, and finish the night on the rooftop with a beautiful Potomac view.

2941, Part Deux

2011-09-20T10:00:00.001-04:00

This Part Deux revisits one of my favorite restaurants, 2941. On this trip, I took Official Roommate of DCWD Talia, and Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas.

(editor's note: still no photos. Sorry.)

The Food

The reason for this trip was the rare appearance of 2941 on the RW dinner list. For her first course, Texas ordered the chilled coconut melon soup with shrimp, and spiced with Thai chili and lemongrass. Despite the fact that she is not normally a chilled soup kind of girl, she very much enjoyed it. Just enough heat to produce an interesting profile of piquant - of which the lemongrass shown through the most - but not enough to be overpowering. Lovely dish.

On our end, Talia and I ordered the heirloom tomato salad, a simple preparation with sheep's ricotta, black olive oil, and sherry vinegar; I also opted for the $4 upcharge for a fried zucchini blossom stuffed with crab. And whoa, was it worth it. Chef Chamel does an amazing job of letting great ingredients speak for themselves, and this dish was a perfect example of that. The preparation was simple but the flavors were pitch perfect, clear and simple and deliciously light. And the fried blossom was nothing short of divine, the perfect savory summertime counterpoint to the sweetness of the tomatoes

For her main course, Texas had the yellow corn risotto with smoked mushrooms, arugala, and goat cheese. To our minds, it was one of the better risottos we've all ever had, with different parts intriguing different people. For Texas, it was the mushrooms and the way they crafted a perfect August meal; for me the risotto and cheese blended in a luscious and creamy goodness that was perfectly done.

For my part, I had the duck duo, one part smoked dumpling and one part roasted breast, served with black mission figs and scallions in a bacon-soy vinaigrette. As evidenced by my last entry, we also had a duck duo on our first trip to 2941, though the difference in seasons accounted for the difference in preparation. The dumplings were okay, simple with some decent flavor from the meatball within the pasta, but it was the duck breast that stood out. Perfectly cooked, its fattiness combined really well with the sweet from the figs; the dish represented the classic combination fairly well. And for those of you wondering: the bacon-soy vinaigrette was a non-factor

Talia ordered the steamed sea bass, served on top of a tomato risotto with gold cherry tomatoes and a lovage coulis. The success of this dish was a matter of opinion, namely between myself and Talia. I liked its simplicity, the way that the kitchen didn't try to overcomplicate an otherwise excellent piece of fish and instead let it play off the tomatoes. Talia wanted more complexity, or at least more flavor. Still, we both agreed that it was a lovely summer dish, unctuous but light for an entree.

For dessert, the girls both had the molten chocolate cake, with a peppermint creme anglaise and chocolate ice cream. To Texas, she appreciated the purity of the chocolate, which resulted in a bitterness that worked well with the mint flavors of the creme. It was rich for sure, but definitely a good representation of the kind of quality that Anthony Chavez can produce.

Myself, I ordered the bourbon brioche pudding with caramelized yellow peaches and butter pecan ice cream. Now, admittedly I am a bread pudding fiend, the product of growing up in a household where my mother didn't make anything close to it (I didn't even know bread pudding was a thing until a few years ago). But this dish's flavor profile featured all things I love: brioche, pecans, alcohol. Once again, it was a wonderful dance of bitter and sweet, of intoxicating and oh-so-pleasant.

The Verdict

As always, an amazing meal from 2941. Lived up to my memory of it, and still one of my Top 5 restaurants in DC.

Food Rating: ***** (out of 5)

Monday Munchies: Greek Deli

2011-09-19T10:00:00.000-04:00

This week's Monday Munchies takes us to one of the "best little takeout places that no one but also everyone knows about" in Greek Deli. Sandwiched in a skinny storefront next to Nooshi, the Greek Deli is most notable for its daily weekday line out the door.

Inside is a simple takeout counter in the back, with some coolers and shelving on one side, and a frame wall of reviews and the obligatory presidential portraits on the others (they, like every customer, are referred to by the collective term "my friends"). On this trip, I ordered the gyro platter: a gyro, orzo, and the vegetable of the day (on this day, some lovely stewed green beans and peas. To say this was delicious would be an understatement. Scrumptious meat on the gyro, with a generally refreshing feeling to it, and the orzo was definitely can't-get-enough.

Taste Test: 4 Forks (out of 5)
Perfect for: Workday lunch... if you have time to wait.

Bibiana, Part Deux

2011-09-15T10:00:00.001-04:00

Last January, it was a dinner at Bibiana that inspired me to start this blog (the Hook post came first, but it was Bibiana that started that week). And so, this is our first update to a previous review. We'll use the opportunity to look at if the food is still good, and if the vibe has changed at all. Joining me on this trip were Official Friends of DCWD Baboon, G, and HR Intern.

The Food

Bibiana always does a good job for Restaurant Week, offering dishes that almost all come form their regular menu. For our first course, Baboon and I each had the Polpette, pork meatballs with pine nuts, raisins, and a chickpea puree. This was a dish I had last year, when it was veal meatballs in white polenta (perhaps proving Official Co-Writer of DCWD CC's main RW-hatred point, that restaurants will use lesser ingredients). The dish was once again a single massive meatball, and yet again it was good... but there was just that extra something missing. It was just close enough to the former that it made me absorb this dish's shortcomings that much more.

G and HR Intern each ordered the seared calamari, stuffed with smoked potato, salami, and citrus in a squid ink vinaigrette. This dish was a classic "interesting" dish. Everyone admitted that the food was cooked well, especially the perfect calamari. Everyone also agreed that the potato stuffing was an innovative and well-done creamy textural addition. But we all just couldn't put our finger on just what was missing from it. Clean flavors, but needed just one more thing to push it over.

For the main course, we all went our separate ways. With visions of last year again dancing in my head, I went with the skate wing with summer vegetables in broth. The overwhelming feeling on this dish was "blah." As in, this just tastes like whitefish in vegetable broth. No bold flavors, nothing of note. Just overwhelmingly bland.

In fact, this was the issue with all of the entrees: too one-note. G had the scialatelli with mussels and tomato, essentially longer, thicker, starchier spaghetti. The pasta was fresh, the mussels were interesting, and the tomato was a nice flavor, but the dish was just okay, and nothing too memorable.

Baboon had probably the best entree, which said something; he had the sirloin with grilled radicchio and salsa verde. Then again, all you could say about it was that it was a well-cooked steak. The salsa verde added a certain dimension, but it was a dish you could find at any number of restaurants within a couple blocks.

The most unique dish was HR Intern's, a smoked potato gnocchi with cherry tomatoes and basil. And man, was that smoky flavor apparent. In fact, it was almost the only flavor. The pasta was again fresh, but the whole dish was almost all smoke flavor, without any sort of complexity.

Dessert took a turn for the better, with at least the discussion moving from "well one of these entrees has to be the best" to a legitimate conversation about the quality of the desserts. I held that my vanilla panna cotta topped with a pistachio streusel and macerated berries was the best. In point of fact, the panna cotta was the one dish that improved from my last trip, creamier with more interesting flavor combinations.

Baboon had the "tiramisu," a mascarpone mousse on an espresso biscuit with caramelized white chocolate. The flavors were relatively right on, and the overall bite was a solid one. It was decent, though not my favorite tiramisu rendition.

G and HR Intern both had the peach semifreddo tart, topped with whipped cream and a peach compote. It was an interesting bite certainly, with the custard mixing well with the cookie crust on the bottom, and some good fruit notes from the peaches. A decent dessert, though again, not something to call home about.

The Verdict

A downgrade from before. Just not as good as I remember it.

Food Rating: ** 1/2 (out of 5)

Cooking Adventures: The Queen's Scones

2011-09-13T10:00:00.009-04:00

Today's cooking adventure comes courtesy of the National Archives, specifically the "What's Cooking, Uncle Sam" exhibit (the same one that goes hand-in-hand with America Eats Tavern). Among the artifacts in the exhibition was a recipe that Queen Elizabeth II gave to Dwight D. Eisenhower. Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I obviously had to try it (which is to say, she did the work and I watched very fondly).

Queen Elizabeth's Drop Scones

4 teacups flour
4 tbsp fine sugar
2 teacups milk
2 tbsp butter
2 eggs
2 tsp baking soda
3 tsp cream of tartar

Beat eggs, sugar, and half of the milk. Add flour, and mix well adding remainder of milk as necessary. Add baking soda and cream of tartar, and then fold in the melted butter. Pour onto a griddle and voila.

Apparently these were drop scones, because the consistency of the mix and the end result were closer to pancakes than what you might consider scones. Still, the flavor was unmistakably scone-y (but you know, in pancake form). To dress them up, we topped the scones with some grilled white peaches and fresh goat cheese from the farmers' market. Delicious. Although, warning, this recipe makes a huge batch.

Monday Munchies: Buzz Bakery

2011-09-12T10:00:00.007-04:00

Plaudits: 2011 RAMMY Winner - Tiffany MacIsaac, Pastry Chef of the Year
Neighborhood: Alexandria

The Setup

Fresh off a joint 30 mile bike ride, Official Friend of DCWD Juli dragged me to her favorite bakery, Buzz Bakery in Alexandria.

The Vibe

Buzz comes from RAMMY-award winning Tiffany MacIsaac, she of the Neighborhood Restaurant Group (Tallula, Birch and Barley/Churchkey, Vermilion), and sits in a suburban portion far removed from Old Town. It fits in well with contemporary Baked and Wired: a bakery that also trends towards the coffee house, a neighborhood gathering place that emphasizes a sense of relaxation with a dusting of sweet.

The color scheme is bright: orange and lime green and pink. The main seating area has a row of half-booth sofas, in front of a square white shelves with various baking items (Kitchenaid stand mixers, coffee makers, bowls) and a cake facade. A line of community tables follows the two-tops, atop a striped carpet on wood floors. To the front is the counter, with two large glass cases of all the baked goods.

The Food

Having ditched Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas that morning for my bike ride, I decided to buy her the whole bakery: in this case four cupcakes (Cookie Dough, Berry Crumble, Cookies and Cream, and Red Velvet), two scones, a chocolate croissant, and a lemon-poppy seed muffin. Overall, there were some good things, and there were some just okay things. The cupcakes themselves were nice and moist with some wonderful additions (cookie dough, blueberries, an Oreo top), but the icing was a little too chalky. On the other hand, the two scones (onion and manchego cheese, and raspberry almond) were delightful, as was the lemon-poppy seed muffin. Maybe not the best cupcakes in DC, but definitely a solid bakery.

The Verdict

In short, Buzz is the kind of place that the District sadly misses too much: a bakery that isn't just cupcakes, a bakery that is also a lounge/coffeehouse, and a fun place to be.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 4.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: N/A
Vibe: Calm
Cost: $ (out of 5) (less than $25 for two)

Rogue 24

2011-09-08T10:00:00.000-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Shaw/Logan Circle

The Setup

Perhaps no new restaurant has captured the imagination and attention of the food blogging world of DC like Rogue 24. First, take the incredible buzz that follows a James Beard accoladed chef leaving a Top 10 restaurant to start his own. Then pile onto that a minibar-esque tasting menu, complete with innovative ridiculous cooking techniques, and an incredible online outrage stemming the release of the restaurant's not-out-of-the-ordinary reservation contract, and you have all the makings of outrageous levels of buzz. So I headed to a Friday night dinner there with Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas, and Official Friends of DCWD MM and MPDD.

The Vibe

Part, if not the majority, of Rogue 24's cache of cool comes from its setting: a converted garage in a back alley. Rogue finds itself as a midpoint between the rapidly rising 14th St corridor and the Convention Center/Chinatown outliers of Corduroy and The Passenger. If anything, by sitting in the middle of this food desert, the restaurant becomes that much more appealing; you feel like you've stumbled onto this hip, underground restaurant.

This feeling is furthered by the decor. Like many of its contemporaries, Rogue 24 aims to be classy while down-to-earth, "hipster" in a non-pejorative way. All of the characteristics of the post-industrial theme are there: exposed brick and a vaulted open ceiling, a workstation by the host stand. But grafted onto it is a trendy interior, from the casual lounge in front where you can sip on Derek Brown creations, to the woven white orb lights that hang above each table. Seating includes a few chef's-table-type bar seats, with a ring of twos and fours and a few sixes around the edge of the restaurant.

All of this ignores the central premise of Rogue 24: the open kitchen, set like a theater-in-the-round in the center of the dining area. From your table, you can witness as the chefs scurry about, creating the very food you're about to eat. And it's the chefs themselves who present your meals tableside, as bussers and sommeliers move in an effortless ballet around you, clearing and setting your utensils while not making too much of a disturbance. Moreover, it's R.J. Cooper who did most of the expediting on this trip, and who glad-hands most of the tables, including ours. He makes a small joke with pescetarian Texas about rabbits being vegetarians, and shakes our hands at the end of the meal. It's a small thing but friendly. In general, this was the theme of the service of the night: very personable, efficient, and friendly. Definitely on the better end of service I've had in this city.

The Food

We opted for the 24-course Journey menu with pairing, though we'll also be able to clue you pescetarians in on what's in store for you.

To start, we were all given a small shot-glass of watermelon cocktail: watermelon extract with basil and sparkling water. Perhaps it wasn't the best amuse for the meal, as it wasn't terribly innovative or even particularly delicious. But it was at least seasonally on point, and refreshing.

The first three dishes came as a set of bite-sized starters. First was the "bone marrow," with a bone made of a hollowed out heart of palm, marrow made from olives, topped with some orange and a piece of iberico lomo. It was okay, with an interesting briny flavor profile, but the ham was lost in the dish, and it was better in concept than in practice.

Second was a chip made of kimchi but textured like a pork crackling, and topped with caviar-like soy bells. Once again, the flavors were interesting but the overwhelming taste was that of salt, with the sesame and soy getting in the way of other things.

The third was a piece of cauliflower topped with ossetra caviar and champagne air. This was perhaps the best of the three, though the cauliflower preparation made it surprisingly un-cauliflower like; it was more like... well, the heart of palm actually. But stickier. Still the sweet tart of the champagne air was a solid flavor.

Alongside this dish was our first wine pairing - an aperitif of Foggy Ridge apple cider from Virginia. It was sharper than most ciders, and was nice for a bubbles course... but something was a little missing without the champagne.

The next group of three started with a ceviche of razor clams, topped with apple, fennel, and a potato foam. This was a favorite of mine, with the potato foam providing a creamy counterpoint to the clams. While it wasn't very "ceviche-y", it was definitely enjoyable, with a great blend of flavors.

Fifth was Rogue's interpretation of leftover Chinese takeout, known affectionately as their "fried rice special #2" - corn crispies, with dried corn, carrots, and cabbage topped with scallions and for us, duck. This was served in a small bowl placed in our left hands, and was actually a dish that grew on me. The first bite seemed pedestrian, but each successive bite made me enjoy it all the much more. Not a dinner dish, but definitely a fun snack.

Then came the "sea floor," a piece of sea urchin on top of squid ink "rocks" and seaweed with dots of clamato ketchup. This dish's success hinged on whether or not you could deal with the admittedly-acquired taste that is squid ink. If you do, then the urchin was an amazing creamy flavor with some interesting sharp contrasts; if not, then its strength overpowered everything else in the deep bowl.

These three dishes were paired with a cocktail, a classic known as the Holland House, made of Dutch gin, dry vermouth, maraschino liqueur, and lemon peel. Despite its stronger components, it tasted like either a fruity martini, or a drier lemonade, and was a really great taste.

Seventh was one of the night's first homages to Chef Cooper's former kitchen at Vidalia. This was the restaurant's play on shrimp and grits, called the "Hail Buben." This version though, came with a grits-crusted croquette filled with corn milk, paired with a shrimp terrine and shrimp foam and arugala pesto. The grits croquette was absolutely lovely, and the foam was on point, providing with a good play on the flavors of the classic Southern dish. This, to me, demonstrated the trend of the night: when the kitchen played to its strengths, and just made homages to Southern food, that's where it succeeded.

Our Southern interlude was temporarily interrupted by the next dish, a quail egg yolk served on an edible hay next with shaved cracklings for us, and black truffle for Texas. Served in a capped dish, the presentation was one of smokiness, from the amount that billowed out from the bowl when it was uncovered, to the flavoring of the hay. By capturing that burnt straw barbecue taste with the hay and smoke, it added a depth to the whole dish that I think was spot on.

The meal returned back to Southern flavors in the next dish: a piece of brioche toast topped with bacon powder, Vidalia onion ice cream, and a piece of hog jowl bacon. Nothing says classic Southern flavors quite like pork and onions, and in fact these were the touchpoints of this amazing bite. The onion ice cream was a surprisingly sweet and sumptuous bite, and the bacon was a perfect salty companion. Combined with the lightness of the brioche, it was a great dish.

These three dishes were paired with a Seebrich riesling from Germany. Despite the varietal's often saccharine qualities, this particular riesling was less so, providing a nice sharpness to pair.

Dish ten was the restaurant's take on vichyssoise, the classic served cold potato-and-leek soup, but this time augmented by black truffle and almond milk replacing the cream, and poured tableside. This was both successful and not; while the flavors were there and it was a pleasant bite, it generally lacked the full creaminess that makes a vichyssoise so enjoyable (I blame the almond milk substitution). Still a nice dish.

The next dish began the divergence between our meal and Texas's. Up until this point, she had been eating the same dish but without the meat toppings. But instead of the spherified liquid chicken paired with porcini mushrooms, Texas had a stack of watermelon, tomato, and coffee. Both basically can be describe with the same few phrases: overwhelmingly one note (chicken on the one hand, watermelon on the other); interesting preparations but perhaps not much actual difference in terms of contrast; decent flavors otherwise.

The twelfth dish was perhaps the favorite of the night, referred to as the "What's Up, Doc?" A piece of rabbit paired with a bed of carrots, pecans, and "soil," made of some heretofore mystery ingredient. There were a lot of things that were going well for this dish. The rabbit was immaculately prepared, as were the carrots, which were the perfect balance between crisp and melt-in-your-mouth. And there was just this je ne sais quoi about the soil that brought the whole thing together. How good was the rabbit? The pescetarian Texas craved it the most.

These dishes came with perhaps the most eye-opening pairing: a Vigneti Massa timorasso from Italy. The waiter compared it to a chardonnay, but outside of the light-bodied slight rustic taste, the comparisons ended there. This timorasso had an amazing honey finish that was so delightful, I even considered asking to steam the label off just to know its name.

Next up came the "caprese salad" which utilized all the flavors and even ingredients of the classic Italian dish, but with a reimagined presentation. Heirloom tomato pieces were coasted in olive oil and ricotta salata, mixed with micro basil, candied apples, tomato powder, and caviar-like balsamic balls. It was fun, and the flavors were there, but it recalled a similar but simpler heirloom tomato salad at 2941 (the review of that meal is coming soon) from a few weeks before which stuck with me more, and was just straight out better.

Fourteen was foie gras shavings over lavender and huckleberry and a lightly-flavored mystery substance with the consistency of florists' foam; Texas's version replaced the foie with large chunks of this foam. Right in line with other cold foie preparations, this emphasized its creamier, more savory notes (rather than the fatty, unctuous ones) which paired perfectly with the huckleberry.

Finishing off this trio was a sort of beet slushie, topped with smoked char roe, fennel pollen, and yogurt. For me, like the sea floor, the dish hinged on your fondness for beets. Texas, not a beet fan, stopped halfway, overpowered by the singular strong taste; for me, a later-in-life beet convert, enjoyed its interesting composition and its matching of different flavors. This set was paired with a white-to-red transition, a Domaine de Triennes rose. This was the most unmemorable pairing, which probably speaks to the quality of the pairings more than anything.

The next set brought forth more savory flavors, ushering in a transition from summer to fall. First came the restaurant's shabu shabu: a piece of Wagyu short rib (for Texas, a matsutake mushroom clump) with mushroom, onion, and elephant garlic with broth poured tableside over it. For me, this was perfect, in that it didn't try to do too much and rather just let the dish speak for itself. Umami notes were the most apparent, and it seemed like the perfect dish for those under-the-weather nights.

The seventeenth dish brought a large difference between what we had and what Texas was served. Our dish was a forest nage, a soup of various savory and sweet flavors, including matsutake mushrooms, coffee, and bitter chocolate. For Texas, she was presented with a "garden in a bottle," a carbonated vegetable soup. For us, these were the forgettable dishes of the night; other than the amazingly cute presentation, Texas's soup was ordinary, and this was the one dish that was completely unremarkable even 15 minutes after the meal.

Eighteen was a relatively sizable dish, a piece of squab, paired with turnip, walnuts, in a concord grape sauce - Texas had her squab replaced with mushroom dumplings. The squab was fine, but for everyone, the turnip was just overpowering, sharp and bitter. It was one of the most unpleasant dish of the night. Which is sad, because the pairing was again, very nice: a Garnacha blend from Spain.

Next up was a piece of lamb neck, served with black garlic, eggplant, and lemon. This dish was wonderfully savory, and definitely brought forth lovely flavor combinations that were perhaps seasonably out-of-place, but definitely enjoyable. All the same, Texas's dish was just as good: an interpretation of tortilla espanola. With the consistency of mashed potatoes, it wonderfully combined the potato flavor with a light egg touch, and was absolutely fantastic.

Unfortunately, the next dish was the least favorite - a garden mosaic of shoots, gels, and powders. This dish fully fell into the model of "we're doing this just because we know how." The green goddess ice cream was decent, but it was the gelees of tomato and carrot that just fell flat, and were actually sort of unappetizing. Hands down, the dish that fell the most flat.

The last savory dish of the night was entitled pipe dreams with red pepper, olives, citrus, and a healthy serving of goat cheese. This dish was cool, with fun flavor combinations, but might as well have been called olives in textures, including a spherified olive oil ball (a carry-over probably from sous chef Ryan, who came over from Jose Andres and minibar, where he incidentally also cooked my meal). Anytime you stick goat cheese with citrus and olives, I'm yours, so this was right in my wheelhouse. Paired with a Speedy Creek sangiovese from California, it was a nice end to the savory portion of the meal.

The desserts ran the gamut. Once again, the Southern dish was the most successful: a play on peaches and cream with bourbon-soaked peaches and a peach gelee, coated with marshmallow noodles, and a crumbled creme anglaise. This was a wonderful and classic combination of flavors, with interesting texture from the noodle, and a nice warm finish from the bourbon. By far, this was the best dessert.

The other large dessert, the Tennessee - named after the source of its ingredients - was less so: a chocolate cremeux topped with more bitter chocolate, and dirt composed of powdered chocolate, ground coffee, and hazelnut. For all its rich flavors, it was sort of an unmemorable dish, which is not something you expect from the penultimate serving.

The happy endings, a set of petit fours was pieces of pecan brittle and small bars of raspberry chocolate ganache. Sweet and to the point is the best way to describe them. Not anything inspiring or brilliant, but good. Especially paired with the Val-Dieu, a quadruple (!) ale from Belgium, this was one of the better pairings of the night, with the beer providing a sweet but creamy note.

The Verdict

Definitely a Top 25 meal, and a Top 10 experience, with excellent pairings and a really cool setting. But for the price and given its contemporaries, it's definitely a one-time visit.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Smart Casual
Bar Rating: N/A
Vibe: Noisy
Cost: $$$$$ (out of 5) ($75-$100 for two)
Pairing: Between the show of watching the chefs cook for you, and the three-to-four hour length of the meal, it's its own pairing.

Cooking Adventures: Salmon and Green Apple

2011-09-06T07:00:00.000-04:00

This week we're taking a short break from our regularly scheduled reviews to bring you some of our cooking adventures. Today is taken from the first page of Eric Ripert's Le Bernardin cookbook "On the Line" and was made for Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas (a pescetarian) to welcome her back from a business trip.

Wild Alaskan Salmon and Smoked Salmon with Apple, Celery, and Baby Watercress and Jalapeno Emulsion

5 ounces wild Alaskan salmon
5 ounces smoked salmon
1 large granny smith apple

Emulsion:
1//2 cup minced jalapeno (seeds removed)
1 tsp minced shallot
6 tbsp EVOO
1/4 cup lemon juice
sea salt and ground white pepper

Garnish:
1/2 granny smith apple, julienned
1 celery stalk, peeled and cut
1 tsp celery leaf julienne
1 tsp Italian parsley julienne
1/2 tsp EVOO
4 slices jalapeno
1/4 cup micro watercress
sea salt and black pepper

Like most things at Le Bernardin, this dish is designed to be plated like a piece of art, and in point of fact, that was probably the most appealing part of the dish. The pieces of salmon and green apple are cut into squares and layered in a cascading fashion along a plate, overlapping slightly and alternating between the various salmons and apple. In this version, I ignored the smoked salmon and concentrated on using only the wild salmon I had bought from Whole Foods. Before actually layering, I froze and then thawed the salmon to make sure it was safe to eat, and blanched the apple in boiling water then an ice bath as per the instructions.

For the emulsion, combine all the ingredients in a blender until smooth, and then season to taste with the salt and pepper; it can be made the day before. The garnish, also combine in a bowl and then season; to simplify, I used only the apple, celery stalk, salt and pepper, EVOO, and regular chopped parsley.

The result is above. Tasted amazing!

Friday Night Flights: Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc

2011-09-02T10:00:00.001-04:00

This week's Friday Night Flight looks at another New Zealand wine, the Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc. This one we opened by itself with some peaches and goat cheese, and then later paired it with a dinner of spicy catfish and mango and avocado salsa.

The wine was nice, not overpowering in any way. In many ways it was like Stoneleigh's Pinot that we'd had the week before: eminently drinkable. It had a strong taste of acid (read: tartness, not like battery) on the tongue, and upon eating it with some goat cheese, it came on really smooth. Definitely an interesting wine, and brought forth the best qualities of a sauvignon blanc. Not a home run, but not terrible either.

Bar Review: 2.5 Cheers (out of 5)
Perfect for: Goat cheese

Bistro La Bonne

2011-09-01T10:00:00.012-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: U Street

The Setup

Looking for some quick brunch, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I decided to visit U Street relative newcomer Bistro La Bonne.

The Vibe

It might be obvious to say from its name and its location, but the restaurant's decor is a bistro meets U Street. Take a traditional French bistro (much like say, Bistro du Coin) complete with exposed brick with wine bottles in the crevices, a motley collection of art deco and nouveau posters on the walls, and a French flag over the long wooden bar. Seating is a collection of twos and fours, including a small balcony that looks over the whole restaurant and a two-table patio out front.

The other features are tiny but charming: blue place mats on brown furniture, a wine barrel and wooden geese over the doorway, and a consistent pumping of mid-century swing overhead, which gave Texas and I ample opportunity to dance quietly in the back.

The Food

On this trip, Texas opted for the slightly more traditional route: Daniel's benedicte, eggs benedict with crab meat and spinach replacing the ham, also with a side of frites. The benedict was rich, with the crab meat becoming a nice savory point. It wasn't the best eggs benedict I've ever had, but definitely a good version.

Despite the fact that it broke my brunch rules (has to include eggs), I thought it best to sample the restaurant's signature mussels; in this case, the moules marinieres (white wine, shallots, garlic, parsley). Served with an ample side of fries, the mussels again weren't the greatest I've ever had, but they were fairly flavorful, with a huge taste of parsley. The broth was perhaps not as creamy as I wanted at the moment, but was a pretty decent set of mussels.

The Verdict

Charming little place, good for a date, with some decent grub. We'll definitely be back.

Food Rating: ** 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 4 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Hipster Hangout
Vibe: Chatty
Cost: $$ (out of 5) ($25-$50 for two)
Pairing: Head next door to Twins Jazz (which admittedly, has a supper club), and take in some sounds.

Tap and Parlour

2011-08-30T11:00:00.000-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: U Street

The Setup

Suckered in by the promise of $7 bottomless mimosas (!), a group of us (Official Friends of DCWD Juju and Madison, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas, and Official Roommate of DCWD Rajistan) headed over to newly opened Tap and Parlour.

The Vibe

Located atop Bohemian Caverns, Tap and Parlour is the restaurant portion of the basement jazz club; between the two, there are a number of events listed on a chalkboard by the door, both musical and otherwise. Though it's hard to imagine where exactly that event would take place, as the dining area is much like someone's den. On your left as you enter is a long wooden bar, and a row of high tables. The rest of the seating is a row of half-booths and then a series of what can be described as "cigar lounges" - couches and ottomans surrounding coffee tables. Decor follows suit, like eating in the Study from the board game Clue: wood paneling, fireplaces, and upholstery, interrupted only by the occasional flat screen TV - which on this trip was showing Tom and Jerry and X-Men, the animated series (Saturday morning cartoons we were told).

The Food

Cards on the table: the boozy brunch did us in. The $7 bottomless did not disappoint in any way, and ended up wrecking all the plans I had for the Mid-City Sale. Sadly. Juju and Texas each ordered a Delightful (what Tap and Parlour calls their standard breakfast). It hardly seems worth writing about since something like that can neither be great nor truly awful.

I ordered the Chicken and Waffles, described on the menu as "well, you know." Compared to other chicken and waffles, this was a little subpar, with a sort of dry chicken paired with a similarly tasteless waffle. It wasn't horrible by any means, just not something you couldn't fix yourself - potentially even better. In some ways the "well you know" was sort of apropos.

On the other hand, the remaining two dishes were much better. Rajistan ordered the French Twist, an interesting take on French toast but with croissant halves, dipped in cinnamon and vanilla and served with kiwi, strawberries, and cream cheese. The plate made for a colorful presentation, and the toast itself was pretty delicious. A nice amount of sweet, without being too much; perhaps the only complaint was there wasn't more of it.

Madison had the Cuban scramble, a mess of eggs, black beans, cheddar, sour cream, salsa, and fried plaintains. Despite its haggard appearance, it was a strangely appetizing mix of food, providing all the elements necessary to beat back the hangover and soak up the mimosas.

The real winner in everyone's estimation though were the grits. I talk about grits a lot on this blog (and I really mean a lot, also see here and here and here). But good god these grits were unbelievable. They hit every note in the grit handbook: creamy, savory, cheesy, with that smooth but also lumpy texture. I'm in love with hyperbole, but these were totally worth it.

The Verdict

Great, if for nothing else than the mimosa deal and the grits.

Food Rating: *** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 2.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Quiet Drinks
Vibe: Chatty
Cost: $$ (out of 5) ($25-$50 for two)
Pairing: If you're not there for brunch, then head downstairs to Bohemian Caverns for some nice jazz.

Monday Munchies: Sweetz Cheesecake

2011-08-29T10:00:00.004-04:00

This week's Monday Munchies follows perhaps one of the more interesting entrants into the food truck: the Sweetz Cheesecake truck.

Yes, it's exactly what it reads as: a truck that serves various one-serving cheesecakes, in a ridiculous variety of interesting flavors. What's more, 10% of each purchase goes towards local charity Bread and the City. And at $4 a pop, a relatively affordable bite.

On this trip, I went with the suggestion of the tiramisu cheesecake. The portion size was perfect, and the dessert's first few bites were solid, a good combination of tiramisu flavor with trademark cheesecake creaminess. But with each bite, it seemed the dessert got richer and richer, until it was almost overwhelming at the end. If you're into that, it's a great bite. If you're not, it's a little bit of a struggle.

Taste Test: 2.5 Forks (out of 5)
Perfect for: Dessert after another food truck

Friday Night Flights: DCWD Celebrates International Beer Day

2011-08-26T10:00:00.007-04:00

This is my first post since getting back from my semester in Paris. In order to properly celebrate International Beer Day (editor's note: albeit a bit belatedly), I wanted to get something special. There's a small brewery based in Massachusetts called Pretty Things Beer and Ale Project, and I'd heard good things about their brown ale, Saint Botolph's Town.

It poured a nice, brown color and was almost opaque to light, a bit darker than Newcastle. The beer had an average head, which dissipated after not too long. Aromas of caramel were detectable, as well as nuts and a hint of citrus. The flavor was pretty well rounded, definitely reminiscent of roasted malt. However, the finish was very bitter, bordering on sour, which I neither expected nor enjoyed. Overall a decent sipping beer but nothing spectacular, though maybe I don't fully understand what a brown ale is supposed to be.

Taste Test: 2 Cheers
Cost: Pick up a 22 ounce bottle for around $6 (only available around New England)

Perfect for: The roasted malt flavor would go well with a pasta dish.

Vinoteca

2011-08-25T10:00:00.008-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: U Street

The Setup

Looking for booze after a disappointing visit to Shaw's Tavern (of the mindbogglingly mishandled liquor license situation), Official Friend of DCWD Jax and I hit up Vinoteca. And later that week, I visited again with a group headlined by Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas.

The Vibe

Vinoteca is a wine bar, but in some ways it's a restaurant made up of bars. When you walk in, there's the conventional bar, a ten-seat black granite piece that hugs the restaurant's right side, with chalkboard menus in back. This space is complimented by two additional bar-style seats: some bar seating in the window, and a large central divider that serves as more bar seating. The latter is a particularly interesting space; high enough that you have to sit on stools, but low enough that you're practically sitting on top of the two-tops on the other side. The bartenders are the ones that serve you in these seats, so be prepared to wait a little bit; on our first visit, they seemed disinterested in getting to us. The waitress on our second visit was much better.

On the other side of the red-tiled space that makes up the bar is the main dining area, lined by half-booths around its edges with two large sixes in the middle, and finished off by the aforementioned row of twos. The decor is more chalkboards, with a few wine racks and bottles here and there. A soft glow is provided by orb lights, though that seems overwhelmed by the constant noise level.

Lastly, of note are the two outdoor spaces: the large patio out front, and the bocce court in back. They are beautiful spaces, though not ones I got to on these two night trips. Still, between those and the various options inside, a great first date place though maybe not date three to five; between the eavesdropping potential and the din, tough to get in a real conversation.

The Food

Like virtually every wine bar, Vinoteca serves a bunch of small plates, and Jax and I each chose a few. For herself, she had a side of pickled carrots and onions, the goat cheese flight, and the arancini. The flight was comprised of three cheeses: fenacho from Oregon, cana de cabra from Spain, and the Manchester, which Jax switched for Spanish garroxta, fearing the raw cheese. Served with a few figs, the fenacho was the winner. As for the arancini, which for the unfamiliar are fried risotto balls, this time with saffron and goat cheese, aioli, baby field greens, a tomato sherry vinaigrette, and parmigiano reggiano cheese, they were okay but a little dry. The saffron taste wasn't there and I wish they were a little creamier, but decent.

For my part, I ordered the marmelada crostini, topped with orange marmelade, more cana de cabra, and a membrillo paste. A nice bite to have, with some sweetness to it, and definitely fit in well with both the vibe and the palate. But the real winner was the pork belly with strawberries in port. Yes, it's pork belly, and I've already admitted that I'm a fiend. But the combination of the savory perfectly-cooked unctuous meat with the chart-topping sweet from the berries and port was divine. I could eat this every day and twice on Sunday, it was that good. Weeks later, I can still taste it.

Though not everything is great. On our second trip, Texas and I sampled the yellowfin tuna crudo, mixed with avocado, grapefruit, trout roe caviar, micro greens, orange blossom vinaigrette, and pink Peruvian sea salt. It might seem like flavor overload, and you would be right... if that flavor was grapefruit. The tart citrus dominated, and took attention away from the key fact: the tuna was just so blah. Perhaps not as fresh, and definitely not as flavorful as it needed to be. Definitely a miss.

The Verdict

A menu of amazing dishes but also with definite misses. And given its limited options, probalby worth a brunch trip, or a nightcap, just maybe not for a full dinner.

Food Rating: *** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 4 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Hipster Hangout to Party in the USA
Vibe: Noisy
Cost: $$ (out of 5) ($25-$50 for two)
Pairing: I mean, there's a bocce court. Need I say anything more?

Lavandou

2011-08-23T10:30:00.000-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Cleveland Park

The Setup

Desperately needing a catch-up, Official Friend of DCWD Juli and I met up for dinner at Lavandou.

The Vibe

Lavandou is a tiny restaurant that tries its best to transport you to the French countryside; whether that succeeds or not depends on if you've ever actually been there. The touchstones are there, but perhaps not the authenticity; while other places (say Montmartre) do a better job of faking it, this just feels grafted.

The decor is like a country inn, with cobblestone walls, and a large mural on the left of cafe tables, sunflowers, meadows, and script writing. Seating is an assortment of four-tops in the front window space, then three more rows of half-booths in the main area, one a row of half-booths. Much of the furniture is wood and thatched straw, with red and orange tablecloths. That color scheme repeats itself, ocher and beige dominating. Light is provided by a few simple chandeliers, and a small three-seat bar is in the back. Overall, charming if a little dated.

The Food

It being the absolute stereotype of a French restaurant, Juli thought it best to order accordingly: French onion soup. Simple, classic, hard-to-mess-up... and they didn't really.

For her main course, Juli had mussels, served with gruyere, rosemary, and light cream. I guess if you were a ravenous gruyere fan this might have ended differently, but for me, this was a little off-putting. In a bowl of strong flavors, the gruyere KO'd every other possible taste in an aggressive way the creaminess barely came through.

On my part, I had duck confit, served in a rosemary and lavender sauce with soft polenta, and a red bell pepper ragout. This was a back-and-forth dish for me. On the one hand, the duck was cooked decently and the polenta was a treat, topped by potato crisps. On the other hand, I couldn't shake the feeling that the dish was good, but lacked that critical element to be great. Perhaps it was the sauce: decent, but just not super.

The Verdict

Decent French food, but only for the neighborhood.

Food Rating: ** 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 2.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Quiet Drinks
Vibe: Calm
Cost: $$$ (out of 5) ($50-$75 for two)
Pairing: Nowhere in the area, but if you find yourself looking for a free date, head over to 13th and V for a free screening of National Treasure 2: Book of Secrets in the Harrison Recreation Center park.

Monday Munchies: Sol Mexican Grill

2011-08-22T10:00:00.006-04:00

This week's Monday Munchies brings us back to the world of food trucks, with the Sol Mexican Grill. In terms of menu, think Chipotle on wheels: tacos, burritos, and burrito bowls.

On this trip, I ordered the steak tacos, a trio of soft tacos with a variety of topping options. The long version is that it was a decent meal, fairly tender with fresh ingredients. The short version? I mean, it was basically Chipotle. But mobile.

Taste Test: 2 Forks (out of 5)
Perfect for: When Chipotle is just too far away.

Friday Night Flights: Stoneleigh Pinot Noir

2011-08-19T10:00:00.007-04:00

In a revisit to one of our old, long-ignored features, we look at bottles of wine we've had and how they match up. In this session, we had Official Friends of DCWD Madison, Swizzle, and Rajistan.

This week's bottle was the Stoneleigh Pinot Noir, a product of New Zealand. The 2009 version we had we paired with an admittedly not appropriate white pizza from Pete's Apizza. Upon opening it, Madison noted it needed to really open before we dove into it fully.

In general, the group of us thought it was eminently drinkable, with smooth tannins and a mostly flat taste. Unlike most pinots, there was almost nothing at the end; no sweeping aftertaste of cherry or raspberry, no warm feeling, no depth. In sum, a drinkable pinot, but perhaps something better for the table and not by itself.

Vento

2011-08-18T10:00:00.005-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Dupont Circle

The Setup

During a monthly DC Food Blogger Happy Hour, I brought along Official Friend of DCWD Madison, and we sampled some of the food at Dupont Circle's new hotel restaurant Vento.

The Vibe

Sitting below the Residence Inn on P Street, Vento falls into a decor that can be best described as shabby chic. The walls are dabbed tan paint, with one faux wood wall by the lounge area. The square bar and surrounding couch lounge is light by a set of what can be described as crystal lights, as well as a string chandelier hanging from the exposed ceiling. The rest of the space is trendy, or at least as trendy as something shabby chic can be. And by that, we mean the kind of place that stocks expensive sofas next to a cabinet that looks like it was pulled from a garage sale.

The Food

Looking for some small and quick eats before dinner, Madison and I ordered two small plates from the bar. First came grilled octopus with roasted fennel, fingerling potato, green olive, basil and preserved lemon. The octopus was slimy, in a way beyond what was expected, and the elements around it were weak. The fennel was overmatched, and the potato was nowhere to be found. Overall, we didn't think it worked well.

Next came creamy polenta with gorgonzola, taleggio cheese, and hazelnut butter. This was a disappointment all around. The creamy polenta was actually nowhere close to creamy, sort of chalky, and a quality made more apparent by the additional cheese. The hazelnut butter was more like a gummy gel, and didn't meld as well as with the dish as it needed to.

The only saving grace was a third dish that came out from the kitchen: potato gnocchi with cherry tomatoes, pesto, and kalamata olives. A decent interpretation with some solid flavors that saved what was otherwise not a good experience.

The Verdict

Maybe the regular menu is better.

Food Rating: * 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 1.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Party in the USA
Vibe: Energetic
Cost: $$$ (out of 5) ($50-$75 for two)
Pairing: DC Beer Week is wrapping up, but catch one of the great events this upcoming weekend: http://dcbeer.com/dc-beer-events-calendar

Meridian Pint

2011-08-16T10:00:00.007-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Columbia Heights
The Setup

Needing a brunch in C. Heights, with a wait at Red Rocks, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I headed to Meridian Pint.

The Vibe
Restaurants work best when they fit in with the vibe of their neighborhoods, and Meridian Pint certainly fulfills that best practice. Sitting on the corner of 11th and Park, it fully fits into the hipster vibe. The ground floor is a well-lit conventional bar, from the expansive patio out front to the honey-golden wood fixtures, floor to furniture. Exposed pipes hang from the crimson ceiling, punctuated every so often by chandeliers that are almost steampunk, conventional standing fans welded together and bronzed by spray paint.

The front window is a garage door, and the bar features a number of chalkboard menus and American brews on tap. Seating is a mishmash of two-tops in front, with a community table and long wooden bar in the middle, and a row of half-booths and full booths in the back. The decor is accordingly industrial with a large metal cog by the booths, and several smaller ones on the wall.

The downstairs is the hyped portion, as it holds the three booths with beer taps directly at the table (though book in advance, as the allure of not waiting for a bartender fills seats fast). Behind those booths are schematics painted on blue walls surrounding the bar tables, pool tables, and shuffleboard set.

The Food

It being brunch didn't stop us from ordering beer and a mimosa. Still, we both went with traditional brunch dishes. I ordered the turkey hash with poached eggs, topped with a mustard hollandaise. Most hashes suffer from an overabundance of salt or acid, but this had neither. Instead it packed flavor without overpowering, a creamy taste that was savory and delicious. The portion was perfectly sized, the eggs were cooked perfectly and everything mixed in well. A definite win.

Texas ordered the French toast, cooked custard style and orange-scented. This translated into a sometimes overwhelmingly sweet version of the dish, though that vacillated with each bite. Depending on your tolerance for the saccharine, this was either inspired or just a little too much. For me it was fine, but I also have a large fondness for marmalade. For Texas, it took some time in between bites to acclimate.

The Verdict

Solid brunch, with a few missteps. But when it's right, it's great.

Food Rating: *** 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 3 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Hipster Hangout
Vibe: Energetic to Noisy
Cost: $$ (out of 5) ($25-$50 for two)
Pairing: Head over to Newton and Georgia Ave and shop for fun items at Mom & Pop Antiques. Some interesting finds (we got a Marilyn Monroe sign and a steamer trunk), and if nothing else, you can play the piano in front in some feeble attempt to impress your significant other (this doesn't work if she's more interested in said steamer trunk).

Monday Munchies: Wicked Waffle

2011-08-15T10:00:00.003-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Downtown - Farragut

Farragut is a vast wasteland of sandwich shops and lunch chains, outside of a few notable exceptions. Perhaps that's why Farragut Fridays are such a clusterfuck. It's also why someone decided that opening an entirely niche shop catering to the work crowd in the midst of it all was a good idea.

The central conceit of Wicked Waffle is that the normal work-day lunch has been injected with the eponymous food. The caveat is that unlike most waffles, Wicked's come sans butter and syrup (the self-proclaimed European way). So sandwiches have their bread replaced, Caesar salads come topped with waffle chunks, and even the soup is laced with waffle flavor (by way of maple syrup).

Official Roommate of DCWD Talia and I popped for lunch and each of us ordered a waffle sandwich: me, the rare roast beef and swiss with horseradish cream and onion marmalade, Talia the mango, brie, cilantro, and spicy berry jam (advertised as "try this once and you'll never forget it").

Both fell into the same trap, namely that the novelty of the waffles wore off really quickly, especially when you realized you had paid $9 for a fairly small sandwich. My roast beef was far from rare (which was notable only because the menu took the liberty of advertising its rareness). And whatever kick had been promised by the horseradish never came delivered. The same could be said for Talia's slightly better sandwich, which benefited from being sweet rather than savory. But even at its best, when it tasted like some sort of mango salsa, it was still sort of... forgettable.

Taste Test: 2 Forks (out of 5)
Perfect for: Belgians, and people who miss the Low Countries.

Zentan

2011-08-11T10:00:00.008-04:00

Plaudits: Washingtonian 2011 Top 100 Restaurants, Washingtonian 2010 #70
Neighborhood: 14th Street, Downtown - McPherson Square

The Setup

With a Capitol Deal in hand, Official Roommate of DCWD Talia and I dropped by for a dinner at Zentan.

The Vibe

Zentan fits in well with the chi-chi Donovan House hotel that it sits in, a trendy restaurant with a trendy decor. The theme is black and steel, from the different-shades-of-black walls to the graphite tiles behind the long bar. In the back, behind a patterned screen door is a more casual lounge, replete with couch booths and sheer beige curtains. In the main room, seating comes in three varieties: the bar, long community-table-esque bar tables, and then an entire side full of half-booth seating except for two four-tops. Overtop are large light fixtures, platforms with stacks of different sized fake candles, and a steady stream of boom cha music.

The Food

To start, Talia ordered the Chinoise salad, romaine covered by mango, snow peas, avocado, hardboiled eggs, red peppers, cashews all in a creamy soy sauce dressing. Like Susur Lee's signature Singapore Slaw (say that five times fast), it's an at-times overwhelming but at-points delicious combination of flavor. For me, I found it to be a few tastes too many, complexity that too often came across as muddled rather than refined. Moreover, it didn't feel to in-touch with the restaurant's theme, but mostly like a "we threw together what we could find" salad.

On my end, I had the kurobuta BBQ pork belly, with almonds, pickled cherries, and wasabi. I'm a pork belly fiend, and at first taste, this was a pleasant dish. But as the weeks go on and more and more pork belly iterations come to pass, this one just didn't stand up. The cherries, a great idea in pairing the savory and the sweet, were left sort of neutered by the pickling, and the whole dish came across as one that felt like it should've been better. The pork belly was cooked well, but nothing about it screamed great.

For the "main course," Talia had the typhoon roll: spicy salmon, mango, tuna, yellowtail, and pineapple. Unlike the salad, this was a mix of strong flavors that wasn't too much, melding well into a nice sweet taste. Much like the other dishes of the meal though, both Talia and I agreed that it left us wanting, struggling to pin down just why the food couldn't make the jump from fine to good or even great.

This was both the case, and not the case with my second dish, the caramelized black cod with preserved vegetables and miso mustard. On the one hand, the cod was cooked well, but struggled to be anything more than that, receiving only a cursory amount of kick from the mustard. On the other, both Talia and I quickly identified the dish's lack: acid. Though a lemon wedge came with the fish, the whole affair would've been bettered by its mandatory inclusion pre-service.

The Verdict

For the hype, not as great as I thought it would be. Even the hits suffered from the "this-is-good-but-why-is-it-not-great" syndrome. Plus based on its cost, you'll need to really be creative to not end up spending a fortune.

Food Rating: ** 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 2.5 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Smart Casual
Bar Rating: Classy Crowd to Suits Scene
Vibe: Energetic
Cost: $$$$ (out of 5) ($75-$100 for two)
Pairing: Head upstairs to the swanky rooftop pool. It's super trendy (and therefore not for nerds like me), but is a ton of fun.

Willow

2011-08-09T10:00:00.011-04:00

Plaudits: Washingtonian 2010 #39, Washingtonian 2008 #54, 2009 RAMMY Winner - Kate Jansen, Pastry Chef of the Year
Neighborhood: Ballston

The Setup

With an expiring Groupon in hand, and a need for a restaurant before our movie date, Official Girlfriend of DCWD Texas and I headed out to Ballston to have dinner at Willow.

The Vibe

Willow sits in the side of a office complex on Fairfax Drive, in an otherwise nondescript section of Ballston. As a high-end restaurant in an otherwise restaurant-barren part of the suburbs, Willow tries to be many things at once. Walking in, you approach the patio, then a bar/lounge, with a few couches, a ten-seat bar, and a row of half-booth two- and four-tops. The walls are crimson red, with maple brown and black accents, lit barely by track lighting and some large red globular light fixtures, which produce a soft orange glow.

But walk further, and a whole new vibe emerges. The restaurant becomes much more white cloth and much more conventional, with sunlight streaming in from the large windows to the courtyard. Still, some common themes emerge: iron work on the walls, shelves with candles, and dark grey accent walls. In general, there's a mild buzz to the space which ebbs and flows but never fully dies down. Service was slow and inattentive at some points; the server was quick to get our orders in, but otherwise impossible to find as the meal went on.

The Food

To start, Texas and I split an appetizer: the duo of soft shell crab and jumbo lump crab cake, set atop a corn pancake and a bed of peas, corn, radish, and corn sauce. The overwhelming feeling from the two of us was one of "meh." To wit, it wasn't horrible, but it didn't inspire anything other than the feeling of eating. The crab was rendered without any flavor but itself; if I had to pick a singularly memorable flavor from the dish, it would be the corn pancake. All things considered, sort of a disappointment.

For the main course, I indulged in the gluttonous sausage-crusted rack of pork, which came flanked by a potato and smoked gouda tart, and broccolini caramellized onions, all in a ham hock jus. Here was the promise of meat and it delivered, a generous two ribs of pork meat encased in a layer of sausage and ultimately resulting in a dish that would make Scooby envious. All the same, it seemed like a bit much and came across like that, a mix of flavors that was more interesting in name than in combination. It was tasty, but never got past the sort of carnival appeal that sandwiching meat in more meat projects.

Texas went with the roasted Norwegian salmon, paired with butter poached lobster agnolotti, and a ragout of corn, peas, fava beans, and roasted tomato. This dish, much like the others, was fine but with almost no flashes of brilliance. The lobster was blah, more mushy than buttery and therefore stripped of any flavor to make it remarkable. The salmon was good, but not anything that couldn't be recreated by an experienced home chef. So, on some level, if the job of the restaurant is to add value, it wasn't clear if this dish did it.

Dessert was the place where we thought the restaurant would shine, based on the well-advertised bags of cookies to go we saw passed around. We ordered the passionfruit cheesecake, which definitely wasn't mis-sold; the passionfruit flavor came across strongly, with a clear tartness to the whole dish. Somewhat enjoyable, but definitely a flavor that got tired. Still, those cookies did look good.

The Verdict

A few missteps, and considering the plaudits and the distance necessary to get there, probably not somewhere I'd find myself again.

Food Rating: ** 1/2 (out of 5)
Date Rating: 3 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: Classy Crowd
Vibe: Energetic to Noisy
Cost: $$$$ (out of 5) ($75-$100 for two)
Pairing: Jump into the Ballston Commons mall, or grab a movie at the Ballston Common Cinema 12.

Monday Munchies: Oh Fish!

2011-08-08T10:00:00.008-04:00

Plaudits: None
Neighborhood: Farragut/Dupont Circle
The Setup

After a successful run at his eponymous sushi bistro, and two successful collaborations with Richard Sandoval at Masa 14 and El Centro D.F., Chef Kaz Okochi decided to open up a fourth restaurant. Joining me on this trip was Official Friend of DCWD Madison.

The Vibe
Oh Fish! is based on the customizable make-your-own sandwich trend that Kaz saw on one trip to a Subway; in fact, Oh Fish! has been referred to as the Chipotle of sushi restaurants. The concept of the restaurant has you pick a fish, three vegetables, a sauce, and a topping, which is all wrapped up into an eight-piece maki sushi roll. If you're not feeling as adventurous, you can grab cutely-named suggested rolls (one is named Doki Doki, after the Japanese phrase of anticipation before a first date).

The shop itself is fairly clean and austere, very much a grab-and-go sort of place. Seating is only a few high tables, surrounding the deli counter bar. The walls are a pleasant light blue, broken up only by a few pieces of steel wall art, plates with cut out bubbles filled with colored tiles. Pop music plays from the grated ceiling with track lighting.
The Food

Deciding to order our own way, I had a spicy salmon with avocado, sun dried tomato, and basil, topped with wasabi mayo and bread crumbs, while Madison went with the spicy tuna with red bell pepper, sweet tofu, and avocado and wasabi mayo. The thing with this sort of concept is that you can never blame the kitchen for a bad combination. What you can judge it on is the quality of the ingredients. On this point, Oh Fish! was top notch.

Preparation was a bit slow, but worth the wait. Large rolls, and therefore big portions are the norm, and in general, everything was very good. Definitely somewhere I will go back and have lunch again.

The Verdict

Unlike practically every sushi place in the surrounding area, you have complete control. A little expensive for sushi, but definitely worth it.

Food Rating: **** (out of 5)
Date Rating: 2 Hearts (out of 5)
Dress Code: Casual
Bar Rating: N/A
Vibe: Calm
Cost: $ (out of 5) (less than $25 for two)